Gene
Thanks for taking the time to clear up my questions. I'll remember to pay
close attention to the door panel interference. One side of my brain must have
been asleep when I saw T&T column.
I'm sure someone on the list can clarify the gas tank rule. You might just
get by with only the bottom on the tank. I vaguely remember someone explaining
the why of that rule sometime ago on this list. I understand Ed Van Scoy put a
fuel cell inside his tank.
Altered GT would be nice for multi task race cars like your building.
Rich
ghalvorson:First ghalvorson:Last wrote:
> Rich,
> You understand correctly, the main hoop and rear supports can be done
> easily to the TOP of the main frame. And the front diagonal supports tie
> into the small triangular brace in the INSIDE corner, right about where the
> outer rear bolt is for the seat. Anything forward of that has to be tied
> into the inside of the frame rail, otherwise you have to gut the door and go
> through the sill plate. I have stock door panels on and the swing out tubes
> are bent slightly to fit the conture of the door panel. My tubes forward
> have a small bend toward the bottom of them just before they hit the frame
> rail, to give a better matting surface. True, a straight tube with no bends
> is best. But in this case some tube is better than no tube. There is
> enough room for my left leg to work the clutch with no problem. And I can
> still work the hi/low beam switch. The swing out side bar presents the most
> difficulty for the left arm. As I mentioned, in a hard left there is now
> place for my left elbow and arm to slide back into. The bar is there as
> well as the side support in the Kirky seat. But I am going to change that,
> I am taking the saw to the side support of the seat.
> T&T is Tilt & Telescope. (1974, remember?) Without that, it would be a
> problem for the front windshield post tube. Right now I have the stock
> wheel but I just bought a new Grant wheel that is 1/2" smaller. I'll let
> you know how it works out.
> I have no horizontal dash bar. I suppose I could have one but I wanted to
> have a stock looking dash with all the panels. I don't think the front
> tubes give that much support, but and most importantly, the diagonaly braced
> top structure gives support behind the windshield top corners. In the event
> of a roll, the T-tops come off and the top of the windshield caves in. At
> least I have some some protection and the fact is, it is considerably more
> than the stock body gives.
> The motor mounts came w/ the car as it had the big block in it. 1974 was
> the last year. Get the same mounts.
> I have the independant rear, it is also my road racer. I have a Richmond E.
> 5 speed. But to do the MPH I want, I will have to buy a Richmond E. six
> speed w/ the .80 overdrive last gear. I figure w/ my 3.08's I can do 210 at
> about 6,200 rpm. and 28" tires. At least by the numbers, on the salt may be
> a different story.
> Unfortunatly, I built a super fuel cell and put it into the car before
> looking at the rule book. So I will not be in GT. I am toying with taking
> a stock tank and cutting out the top and mounting it under the cell but it
> seems sort of stupid to me. The Class isn't important to me, the number on
> the slip is what I am looking for. I'm not building a car to go after a
> record. I'm building a streetable, pump gas, driver that will also go 200+
> at the right time. Sounds like fun to me.
>
> Gene H
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