Thought I would share this E-mail Dave and I had been exchanging.... his
comments about embarrassingly simple just underscore how Much he knows in
relation to a guy like me who really hasn't assembled his own motors... I
have rebuilt engines before... but nothing like what we are doing here...
for the minimal outlay of Motor assembly I have always left it to folks
that are supposed to know what they are doing....
along with this will be an interesting discussion on motor break in...
somewhere down the Road.... cause it's not all that simple to me... I am
learning.... but I am a SLOW learner sometimes.... K
----------
> From: dahlgren <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> Subject: Re: Crankshafts and how to not hurt one..
> Date: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 7:37 AM
>
> No problem but seems mighty simple to me.. embarrassingly simple..But
> sure if you want..
> dahlgren
>
> Keith Turk wrote:
> >
> > Mind if I share this with the List?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> > To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:51 AM
> > Subject: Re: Crankshafts and how to not hurt one..
> >
> > > Is this the same way you do all the others?? To be honest all i use
for
> > > assembly lube is oil...I use 20-50 racing oil but none the less just
> > > straight oil. if you prime the pump why do you need anything else??
> > > Basically after fitting the bearings. I pour some oil in my hand and
> > > butter all the bearings that are already in the saddles Drop the
crank
> > > in.. Do the same with the inserts that are in the caps ..put the caps
on
> > > and the oil the main bolts or studs and where that contact the cap..
> > > Torque to spec and make sure it turns free.. and has end play that is
> > > correct. Rods and pistons.. I have a large can that holds about 2
quarts
> > > of oil..with the rings on the pistons and the rod bearings in the rod
> > > and cap i dunk the whole piston in until it is under the oil past the
> > > pin.. let it sit a minute or so and then remove and use my hand to
> > > remove excess oil and rock the piston to make sure there is oil in
the
> > > pin and squeeze the ring by hand to get excess oil out of the ring
> > > lands..use a good ring compressor and install. While you are putting
1
> > > piston in you can soak the next one to go.. put some oil on the rod
> > > journal and some on the bearing in the cap and install the cap and
use a
> > > speed wrench to snug the rod bolts.. i am a big fan of those aluminum
> > > gizmos that go over the rod bolts too or if you have the carrilo rods
> > > that screw into the rod and help guide the rod over the journal so
you
> > > don't nick anything..repeat 7 more times and then torque the rods and
> > > check for side clearance that should be correct if you did a trial
> > > assembly..I also make sure that the rod can go all the way over to
the
> > > crank and touch it so I verify that i have enough radius in the edge
of
> > > the bearing..
> > > next is the cam.. use loads of the assembly lube made for cams..on
the
> > > cam.. if roller lifters soak them in the bucket of oil so the oil
gets
> > > into all the rollers and pins etc.. Put the cam in soak the timing
chain
> > > and work the oil into the links with you hand..lube thrust plate area
> > > and install the cam gear and chain..Put fixture on block without
head..
> > > set TDC on degree wheel by using a stop mine is built into the
fixture
> > > that i use to hold indicator to degree cam..with TDC set on wheel
degree
> > > cam .. use intake centerline.. rotate engine a couple of turns to
make
> > > sure lifters are not floating on oil and the check cam at .010 before
> > > and after full lift..take the mid point and that is the intake
> > > centerline.. ought to be around 110 or so for B'ville and most
suitable
> > > cams..install the rest of the lifters remove fixture.. clean head
gasket
> > > surface with carb clean or something like it not WD 40 or oily stuff
> > > though.. install head gaskets and heads oil all the studs or put
sealant
> > > over bolt threads that go into water.. and put oil on the heads of
the
> > > bolts and where the washers contact the head.. torque evenly in about
4
> > > or 5 steps and 2 at the final setting..the rest is easy from here
except
> > > to prime the engine while it is on the stand and make sure the oil
goes
> > > to all the places it belongs..
> > > Enough said..
> > > Dahlgren
> > >
> > > Keith Turk wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Interesting deal yesterday with Shiefer Oil company.... they said
there
> > is a
> > > > Strong Possibility that the assembly lube didn't mix with the Mobil
1
> > and
> > > > that could have been what the problem was... once the assembly lube
was
> > > > gone... the Mobil one couldn't provide the cushion as a result of a
> > chemical
> > > > reaction along with the Heat associated with the Bearing's running
on
> > the
> > > > assembly lube...
> > > >
> > > > Don't have a clue if there is any truth to this... but it was
something
> > they
> > > > had run into several times with Mobil one as a Break in Oil....
> > > >
> > > > Lesson Learned and now I have a Couple of Rodeck Engine Builders
answers
> > on
> > > > how to break this thing in the first time... your 20 min... with
> > Straight
> > > > 40wt and then split the Filter just like we talked about...then add
the
> > > > Mobil one if it's the Oil of choice.... gotta tell you I am not
overly
> > > > impressed with the results so far.... other then the long runs on
the
> > other
> > > > motors with bearings that Look New when you pull them...K
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> > > > To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > > > Cc: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:02 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: Crankshafts
> > > >
> > > > > What you forgot to mention is you bought the best there
is...besides
> > > > > them being honest..
> > > > > Dahlgren
> > > > >
> > > > > Keith Turk wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > after we pulled the Rodeck apart... it was determined that the
only
> > real
> > > > > > weak link in the Motor was the Crank... Lot's of reasons... but
> > mostly
> > > > it
> > > > > > wasn't as good as the rest of the equipment in the Motor...
and If
> > I
> > > > know
> > > > > > Dave he is going to test the combination Pretty well...( Read
LOTS
> > of
> > > > > > Nitrous and Long Runs at Terminal Velocity )( oh and Dave told
me to
> > > > make
> > > > > > sure it would spin to 9800 rpm ...ahhh Okay)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway since it was Scored real Bad .. we decided to find us a
new
> > > > one....
> > > > > > Called 6 different Crank companies and ended up with Sonny
Bryant in
> > the
> > > > LA
> > > > > > area.... Just liked Joe Squires attitude and willingness to
build
> > what I
> > > > > > needed not what he wanted to sell me... The biggest thing I
liked
> > was
> > > > that
> > > > > > there were no Hidden Costs... he started and Ended with the
Same
> > > > Cost....
> > > > > > Balanced Nitrided.. winged counterwieghts... added Center
counter
> > > > > > weights...all at the same cost.... the other folks would do all
> > these
> > > > > > things... but they had the LOW Price up front and then they
beat you
> > up
> > > > with
> > > > > > the Little adds.... and to be honest they all ended up within
$50
> > bucks
> > > > of
> > > > > > each other for the same Crank...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Just thought I would share the day's phone calls....
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Keith ( yeah 9 weeks from now I can try again )
> > > > >
> > >
|