When removing studs from 32 Plymouth blocks I heat the stud to red hot then
allow to cool. Studs screw right out. No penetrating oil I have tried works.
When disassembling a Graham supercharger that the aluminum impeller had
stuck to the cast iron housing I soaked it in hot water. Softened up the
scale and moved things around enough to free the impeller from its shaft.
Rich Fox
-----Original Message-----
From: FastmetalBDF@aol.com <FastmetalBDF@aol.com>
To: dr.piston@worldnet.att.net <dr.piston@worldnet.att.net>;
popms@thegrid.net <popms@thegrid.net>
Cc: land-speed@autox.team.net <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, December 28, 2000 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: Rust Busting
> Thanks, James ...... I' ll have to try some of that ! I used to use
>some
>stuff called " Tasgon ", made by Cabot' s, back in the 50s and early 60s .
>It was nasty smelling stuff that looked like super dirty, thin motor oil,
but
>it
>really was great for rusty nuts n' bolts, etc . I haven' t seen any in a
>long
>time ...... it must have gone to the same place as Bardahl, Wynn' s
>Friction Proofing Oil, and OilZum CRYSTAL motor oil ......
> Oh yeah ...... the Speedtimer is RIGHT : Coca Cola used to work
>pretty well, too ..... I had forgotten all about wiring little juice cans
of
>it
>under the rear end housing, and soaking the U - bolts in it overnight !
> Sounds weird ...... but it worked !
> Bruce where the temp has warmed up to 20 *
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