Keith, you really need to fire up the motor, then
check leak down, not necessarily warm or hot
The seats develop surface "grundge" after the
motor has been sitting, enhanced by byproducts
from the combustion process, this surface rustlike
junk that is most often barely even perceptible to the naked
eye can and does allow air to pass, and often simply running the
motor or turning it over a few times makes a distinct difference
in back to back leak downs, try it sometime to appease yourself
I have noticed some horrendous compression checks and leak down
at Bonneville after the motor has set sometimes not very long, and then
immediately after that starting it, and rechecking, seems that the salty air
makes this worse, just my guess
Joe :)
rgribble wrote:
> KT,
> I know from experience that the directions call for a "warm" motor, but I
> believe that pertains more to the pistons & rings than the valves.
> Regardless, the warmer motor should have less loss. I know a couple of pro
> engine builders I will ask but I understand that the delta (8%)? isn't
> enough to tear it apart.
> BTW, the old 9:1 SVO had better than 15% difference on two clyinders and
> that was on a cold leak down test. That's why I went to the new 12:1.
> Grib
>
> .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:36 PM
> Subject: Leak Down Check
>
> > I had a bunch of pals drop by today.... so Brad and I being smarter then
> > your average couple of racers conned them into helping us yank out the
> Mule
> > Motor and get the engine bay ready for the Rodeck....
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