This is as much for the archives as it is for general knowledge.
Unless your running a car with a Mag and you push it off....somewhere there
is going to be electricity running around.... and anytime you have
homotron's and electrons running up and down a wire.... your going to have a
switch. Switches have to be rated for the amps they are going to carry.
Most Autozone ( you pick your favorite Wax/seat cover/curb feeler shop )
stores don't carry REAL switches.... they are only designed to carry an
average of 10 amp's.... Yes there are 50 amp switches out there but they are
RARE in comparison to the Cheapy 5 amp switch.
Taylor makes a Very nice looking 50 amp switch and I found one I liked with
an aluminum Handle that was nice looking..... BUT the handles broke off (
two outta five did anyway ) over time .... so I wouldn't recommend them for
gloved hands.
I just went back and replaced them with a set of 1.5" Moroso switches that
are also rated at 50 amps.... but they just look much stronger in my humble
opinion... Straight Chrome plated Steel....
when I first built the car I was worried about Big Amp Draws on small wires
so I put all the big wires to constant duty solenoids and ran small wires to
the switches which activated the solenoids.
THEN I learned about Relay's doing the same thing ( thanks yet again Dave )
But again I had to have Switches....smaller Cheaper... and MUCH simpler....
Well that is what I know about switches.... Thou Brad just bought a Nascar
Dash unit from Grib that has weather tight switches in it.... and honestly I
think these are even better then the ones I got.... Hmmm guess there is more
to learn here....
Keith ( just sharing my ignorance.... I hate doing things twice !!! )
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