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Re: Internal Engine Block Painting and dry sump oiling

To: Saltrat@lubricationdynamics.com
Subject: Re: Internal Engine Block Painting and dry sump oiling
From: Askotto@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 01:17:00 EDT
In a message dated 10/18/2006 5:26:09 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
Saltrat@lubricationdynamics.com writes:

I don't  need the HP 
gains but do need to maximize the engine  life.
Skip




Skip, 
 
I can't believe I heard those words dribble off a fellow LSR  guy's 
fingertips! Going dry sump is "free" HP so why not? Also with  Dry Sump's much 
larger 
oil supply runs cooler and is much better for  your engine life,,, unless you 
throw a belt that is! LOL 
 
A good dry sump tank is designed to reduce the air bubbles in the oil and  
the fact it draws the oil out of the bottom of the tank helps eliminate bubbles 
 
and foam too.
 
With the external lines and oil filters, you can easily check engine  bearing 
condition just by unscrewing the filter and examining the filter screen.  I 
have filters on all 4 of my oil scavenge lines from the engine to the  pump, 
the return line from the pump to the tank and the  pressure line  from the pump 
to the oil galley in the engine. I inspect and clean the filter  from the 
engine to the tank every run.
 
Also, and this is a biggie, you can easily preheat the oil with oil tank  
heaters and run it through the engine as a pre-luber by removing the pump  belt 
and spinning the pump over with an air ratchet. Slap the belt back and fire  
the engine. The Gilmer belt on the pump runs loose enough so you can just slip  
it off and on the pulley without messing with the pump mounting/tensioning  
mounts.
 
Yes, it is more complicated with external oil lines, pumps, filters, tanks,  
belts, etc but I wouldn't run a high RPM race engine without dry sump oiling.  
Besides, it's "free HP".
 
Otto




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