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Re: Internal Engine Block Painting and dry sump oiling

To: Askotto@aol.com
Subject: Re: Internal Engine Block Painting and dry sump oiling
From: Skip Higginbotham <Saltrat@lubricationdynamics.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 09:27:02 -0700
OK Otto,
Please explain to me how it is free HP when you trade one oil pump 
for three (or at least two) which take power to turn them and you add 
about 50 or 60 lbs to the car at least which takes power to move down 
the track.
  If I can keep the foam down and the pressure up (should be 
related), it seems to me that driving one pump uses less HP and 
driving one or three pumps is not free HP to me in any case. 
Currently my oil pressure stays constant during the pass once it 
warms up. This is on a BBC twin turbo. I will try warming the oil for 
next year and increasing the pressure to about 75 PSI from 60 PSI. 
And may add an air/oil separator to the turbo lube system.
Skip


At 10:17 PM 10/18/2006, Askotto@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 10/18/2006 5:26:09 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
>Saltrat@lubricationdynamics.com writes:
>
>I don't  need the HP
>gains but do need to maximize the engine  life.
>Skip
>
>
>
>
>Skip,
>
>I can't believe I heard those words dribble off a fellow LSR  guy's
>fingertips! Going dry sump is "free" HP so why not? Also with  Dry 
>Sump's much larger
>oil supply runs cooler and is much better for  your engine life,,, unless you
>throw a belt that is! LOL
>
>A good dry sump tank is designed to reduce the air bubbles in the oil and
>the fact it draws the oil out of the bottom of the tank helps 
>eliminate bubbles
>and foam too.
>
>With the external lines and oil filters, you can easily check engine  bearing
>condition just by unscrewing the filter and examining the filter screen.  I
>have filters on all 4 of my oil scavenge lines from the engine to the  pump,
>the return line from the pump to the tank and the  pressure 
>line  from the pump
>to the oil galley in the engine. I inspect and clean the filter  from the
>engine to the tank every run.
>
>Also, and this is a biggie, you can easily preheat the oil with oil tank
>heaters and run it through the engine as a pre-luber by removing the 
>pump  belt
>and spinning the pump over with an air ratchet. Slap the belt back and fire
>the engine. The Gilmer belt on the pump runs loose enough so you can 
>just slip
>it off and on the pulley without messing with the pump mounting/tensioning
>mounts.
>
>Yes, it is more complicated with external oil lines, pumps, filters, tanks,
>belts, etc but I wouldn't run a high RPM race engine without dry 
>sump oiling.
>Besides, it's "free HP".
>
>Otto




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