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Re[2]: Let's Try it Out

To: <mg-t@Autox.Team.Net>, <Lawrie@britcars.com>
Subject: Re[2]: Let's Try it Out
From: ray.rockwell@wg.com
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 08:23:45 -0500
     Lawrie,
     
     Thanks for the advice.
     
     I need to clarify the 1/8" problem, though. I guess I should have said 
     length when I said width. When I set a main bearing into the block, 
     the bearing does not seat all the way down into the block. there is a 
     1/8" gap between the bearing and the seat in the block. It is like the 
     bearing is "bridging" it's respective block cavity. I am sure I could 
     press the bearing half down into the block but wanted to confirm that 
     this is normal before I did so.
     
     Thanks, Ray


Subject: Re: Let's Try it Out 
Author:  "Lawrie  Alexander" <Lawrie@britcars.com>  at wg-ral-smtp
Date:    3/30/98 7:35 AM


Ray...this is a common problem with the new center main bearings sold today. 
The fix, however, is simple....
     
First, the locating hole......a small rattail file should be used to 
carefully ovalize the hole until it fits over the locating dowel in such a 
way as to enable the bearing flanges to fit the saddle correctly.
     
Second, the fit into the crankshaft.......this will need a pair of calipers, 
a set of feeler gauges, some 400grit wet/dry paper, a can of WD40 and a 
surface plate (or piece of window glass laid flat and taped down so it can't 
move). Measure the width of the bearing at each end and in the middle. 
Determine which is the forward side of the bearing (toward the front of the 
engine) when it is installed. Spray a patch of the paper with WD 40, then 
rub the forward edge of the bearing  - making sure your pressure is even 
across the  full width of the bearing - on the paper. Spray fresh WD40 from 
time to time.
     
Keep checking with your caliper to make sure you are taking the metal off 
evenly. Keep trying the bearing in the crank until it will fit and allow you 
to place a three-thousandths feeler gauge all the way around. Repeat the 
process on the other bearing half, making sure you remove metal only from the 
forward side of that half, too.
     
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
     
     
-----Original Message-----
From: ray.rockwell@wg.com <ray.rockwell@wg.com> 
To: mg-t@autox.team.net <mg-t@autox.team.net> 
Date: Monday, March 30, 1998 5:06 AM
Subject: Let's Try it Out
     
     
>
>     Let's see if there is anyone out there (yet) that can advise me on a 
>     TECHNICAL QUESTION.
>
>     I have  53TD, with the engine just out of the machine shop. Put the
>     cam in and now is on the stand. Since I could not get anywhere with my 
>     engine due to problem below, I decided to sandblast the entire frame
>     this weekend then prime and paint it. Turned out pretty good. 
>
>     I am following Horst Schach's book cover to cover but he leaves out 
>     many things, commonly called details. Anyway, my question is
>
>     I am attempting to put the main bearings in and there is about a 1/8" 
>     gap between the bearing and the cap or block (bearing too wide). I did 
>     not want to force the bearings in just yet. Is this normal? Also, the 
>     center bearing goes in OK over the dowel pin in the block but the
>     edges of the bearing do not quite line up even with the edges in the 
>     block. Is this normal?
>
>     Thanks in advance.
>
>     Ray Rockwell
>     Cary, NC
>
>
     
     



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