1952 MGTD #13588
Now that I have a manual and working starter, I went to work on the oil
system. This car has the external and separate cast aluminum oil
canister. There is an S-pipe from the pump to the canister and then a
U-shaped pipe from the canister to the side (and rear) of the block.
Right next to where the U-shaped pipe bolts to the block, another banjo
fitting is used to run oil up to the rocker shaft and to the gauge. I
pulled the upper fitting to the rocker shaft and ran the starter hoping
to find oil coming up the pipe. Nope.
The next thing I did was remove the banjo fitting at the pump of the
S-shaped output pipe from the top of the oil pump. There I added a few
squirts of 90 weight (it took very little) and then spun the starter. It
immediately oozed the 90 weight back out.
I tightened the 'S' pipe back up and then removed the U-shaped output
pipe from the oil canister. Spinning the starter had oil spit out but
not with much authority. Placing my finger over the hole and running the
starter eventually over-powered my thumb seal so the pump was trying to
work -- just not with any ambition.
So I then removed the oil canister from the car and dismantled it. It
was really, really, dirty with sludge and carbon buildup. I thought the
bottom of the canister had a black rubber seal until I dug through it
and found nothing but crud. I have since cleaned it thoroughly with
kerosene and can now install the new filter.
I was somewhat dismayed that I couldn't find any oil bypass inside the
filter canister -- it seemed to just be a home for the filter. Looking
at the manual, the bypass seems to be integral to the pump. So where
does the oil go when it bypasses the filter? That is, it doesn't seem to
follow the normal flow into the Pipe at into the backside of the block.
Does the internal oil bypass go to the cam bearings from an internal
routing to the front side of the block?
Next project: I purchased a new oil filter from the Moss catalog. It is
item #435-390 and looks like a paint roller. (Pictured on page 6 as item
128a.) I also bought the seal kit #435-408. When trying to put the thing
together, though, the oil filter cartridge appears to be too long. I can
install it into the canister and just barely engage the threads to
tighten down the canister. In order to seal it, I will have to crush the
oil filter 0.38 to 0.40 of an inch. Is this normal? The old oil
cartridge appears to be of the same construction and it appears that its
ends have been flattened to fit in the canister.
So, what should I do? Just start tightening it down or do I have the
wrong filter?
The next issue is the pump, itself. I've got the car up on jack stands
and I am peering up from the bottom. Hanging off the bottom of the pump
is a knurled knob at the end of a shaft held by a compressed spring. I
am assuming this is the oil-bypass control spring. What do you do with
this thing? That is, is there some setting I am supposed to work
towards? I am not too impressed with the service manual as it seems to
spend effort explaining the oil pump I don't have.
Errata: Whitworth sucks.
Thanks for monitoring the list,
Bob Allen, Kansas City, '52TD#13588
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