That's a great idea!! (the heater hose)
JJJ.
Jim Stuart wrote:
>4th possibility is that you have lost prime in the oil pump. These are not
>self priming pumps, & if the pump has drained for whatever reason, it will
>have to be removed & packed with Vaseline.
>
>Slight add to the priming tool already described- a short length of heater
>hose clamped to the drive tool, extending about 1" beyond the tip & held in
>place with a hose clamp will keep the drive tool from slipping off the oil
>pump shaft.
>
>Jim Stuart
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
>Behalf Of James J.
>Sent: Monday, March 03, 2003 1:36 PM
>To: V8 list
>Subject: Re: Oil pressure
>
>
>Paul,
> To the best of my knowledge, the oil-system is not air-tight,
>therefore I doubt that removing the heads "broke the seal", so to speak.
>The only thing that holds the oil under any pressure in the system (when
>the car is off) is the flap-valve in the oil filter. If that is old,
>worn, or just one of the many crappy oil filters on the market, it could
>allow the oil to fully drain into the sump after a period of down-time
>(or in seconds if it is a really bad filter), thus necessitating pump
>repriming.
> I would NOT try using the starter anymore, as it sounds to me that
>you have zero oil pressure, which means metal-to-metal contact all over
>your engine (esp. the main, rod, and cam bearings) and that each
>subsequent turn of the crank is taking months off the life of your engine.
> What you can do is remove your distributor, and cut the shaft off of
>a long flat-head screwdriver (or buy some round-stock, and grind one end
>like a flathead) and put it into the chuck of an electric drill. Insert
>this into the distributor shaft and turn it by hand until the end of the
>screwdriver shaft drops into the slot in the top of the oil-pump drive
>shaft. Once its engaged, just pull the trigger on the drill to operate
>the pump. If no oil moves through the system, you have one of three
>problems:
>1) The oil-system is blocked somewhere near the pump (either in the oil
>pick-up tube, in the remote filter lines (assuming you have a remote
>filter) or in the filter itself, or just after the pump while all the
>oil is traveling in just one line)
>2) You have a leak somewhere
>
>3) The pump shaft has broken, preventing the cam/distributor (and your
>new tool) from turning the gears of the pump.
>
>There are probably several other possibilities that I'm missing, but
>these come to mind, and are likely candidates.
>
>Enjoy, and let us know what you find.
>James J.
>
>
>Telewest (PH) wrote:
>
>
>
>>I'm in the middle of doing a top-end rebuild of my factory V8 whilst still
>>in the car. I got the heads off and as part of many tests decided to check
>>the oil flow out of the ports in the block. I spun the engine on the
>>starter for what seemed like ages but no oil came out of either port and no
>>pressure registered on the gauge. I drained the coolant (a relative term,
>>since it seems impossible to get it out of the right-hand side of the block
>>since there is no drain tap) but have haven't touched anything to do with
>>the oil pump, filter, cooler or gauge etc.
>>
>>Comments? Could the removal of the valve gear have allowed the oil to
>>
>>
>drain
>
>
>>down and empty the pump? Will I now have to remove the pump and pack it
>>with Vaseline or otherwise prime it before I can get any oil pressure? I
>>intend to remove the front cover hence oil pump etc anyway.
>>
>>TIA,
>>PaulH.
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