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Shortening Replacement Valves for the 300 heads.

To: <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Subject: Shortening Replacement Valves for the 300 heads.
From: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 12:38:36 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
References: <004f01c3aa9e$e30de840$b965fea9@one>
Reply-to: "JJJ" <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net
I've been looking for some alternate oversized valves to use on my B300
heads.  I've found some ones that match the max allowable sizes recommended
by Kurt S. and Dan L. and have undercut stems for better flow.  However,
some of the ones I'm eyeing are more than 0.5" longer than the stock 300
valves and will have to be cut down.

1)Does anyone know if valve tips have to be hardened?  The tips of the
rockers are, so I suspect that the modified valve stem tips must need it too
 esp. if I'm cutting off the top 1/2 inch, but I figured I should ask.

2)Other than perhaps a slight weakening, and reducing thermal contact area,
are there any major drawback to undercut valves that I should know about?

3)I've found a place that sells internal engine coatings to the DIY folks.
These are ceramic thermal barriers for piston tops, and valves.  They also
sell moly-based dry-film lubricants for piston skirts, valve stems, bearing
journals and gear trains.  I'm gonna' try these and report back to you later
  At first I thought it was snake oil, but I found several pro-shops that
apply this company's products and the pro coatings have a reputation for
working.  The only difference is that they are now packaging them for
retail" in a way that is comparable to powdercoating, which I've been doing
at home now for a while with success.  So we'll see.

James J.

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 
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