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Re: Front end problems

To: Dennis & Stephanie Littrell <dlittrel@northernnet.com>
Subject: Re: Front end problems
From: arm@unix.infoserve.net (Ross MacPherson)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 10:11:58 -0700
>MG'ers
>If my network ever comes back up, perhaps someone could answer a few
>questions for me. Shirley's front end is lying in pieces on my garage floor,
>and I'm having a REALLY bad day. 
>#1 Can anyone tell me what the construction of a front sway bar link is? All
>the books, manuals, etc. show it as one piece, but it is not. I cannot
>seperate it from the spring pan due to the nut turning. The link doesn't
>turn, just the bolt or whatever the nut is threaded to. 

I can't answer your question right at the moment but I can suggest youy
invest in a good quality nut splitter.  For those nuts that have simply
become one with the bolt a nut splitter is a final solution.  It will
destroy the nut but will seperate your parts for you (almost) every time.

>#2 How to seperate a lower fulcrum pin from an A-arm?  Siezed solid. Soaked
>it in WD-40 overnight. "I can't do it, Captain! I just don't have the
>power!"  I assume heat to one part or the other? When heat is applied to a
>metal object with a hole in it, does the hole get bigger or smaller?

The whole (and hole) will expand.  Heat the arm and do it with LOTS of heat
fast.  Propane is almost useless because it is not hot enough.  It heats so
slowly that it allows conduction of the heat throughout the entire assembly
and defeats the purpose.  It's better than nothing but to really crank the
heat to your seized parts you need an Oxy/acetylene torch.  A good
compromise is MPS (pronunced MAP) gas, It can be purchased in bottles just
like propane and can be used with most propane nozzles.  It is much hotter
than propane and generally does a much better job of freeing frozen parts.
.
>#3 What is a brand name of an "anti-sieze" compound?

I use "Molylube Anti-seize Lubricant" and I use it on EVERY machine screw
and bolt I replace on either car. Buy a big can.  Permatex makes a good one
too.  Look for one that is molybdenum based.

>#4 Best rubber lubricant for installing bushings? I've seen WD-40 mentioned,
>but isn't that petroleum based, and therefore detrimental to rubber?

Dish washing detergent and a drop of water works for me.  In a pinch, saliva.
>

Are we having fun yet?
 
Cheers,
   ___        \______           Ross MacPherson 
  / __ \ __ /       /------|)   arm@unix.infoserve.net
/  (___)---------/ (___)        Vancouver, BC, Canada
 1947 MG-TC 3528                1966 MGB-GT 
                                                            


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