>Okay, I tried to follow the directions carefully and even had my warm beer
>to prove it, but I need help. These carbs are on a TD which hasn't been run
>in 25 years. I have cleaned them up and put in the Moss rebuild kits and the
>motor runs good but I think a lot rich. I went about regulating the air
>flow first and I think got them pretty even. Then, I started the mixture
>adjustment, un-screwing the nut one flat at a time(as instructed)--it seemed
>to not run as well, so went to starting place and tightened one flat at a
>time--the car seemed to run better--tightned more, car seemed to run
>better---it continued to run better up to ten flats and I stopped because I
>had only two flats to go--since I had started at them twelve flats or 1 1/2
>turns from the stop. The car continued to run rich---I would raise the
>piston 1/16 of an inch and the motor would speed up and continue to run at
>that speed. I need your advice.
>
>Does the tightning of the adjustment nut makes the carbs run leaner??? Could
>it be that these carbs need more than a rebuild kit--maybe new needles?
>Other Ideas?
>
>Thanks in advance
>Bob Dallas
>Houston, Texas
>'69 MGB-GT '51 MG-TD
>
Dega Vue! I've had the exact same experience with my TD. It runs best with
the jets all the way up, full lean. I also used the Moss rebuild kit.
I picked up a booklet at Indy called Your S.U. Companion by Donald Jackson.
The author says this is a common problem, and he suspects that modern
gasoline is richer, and that the new needles and jets may be out of
spec. He suggests trying a EU needle (not the AP listed in the catalogs
as the leaner needle). I haven't tried this yet, but I will as soon as
I find a source. Another thing I want to try are the original cork seals.
The rebuild kit I used had rubber seals, and I had problems with leaks.
Bob Donahue, Still Stuck in the '50s
rdonahue@holli.com
1953 MG-TD under restoration
1971 MGB
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