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Re: Rust-Oleum

To: "W. R. Gibbons" <gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu>
Subject: Re: Rust-Oleum
From: Dwade Clay Reinsch <dreinsch@tenet.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 06:08:01 -0500 (CDT)
My 2 cents worth on the painting issue.  I've got a compressor.  So I 
borrowed a full sized paint gun from a friend without a compressor 
several years ago and I have painted several used cars for my children 
and friend in the front driveway.  The big gun was really hard to keep 
under control.  So about a year ago I bought one of  the little "touch 
up" guns.  It's spray patteren is not much bigger than a can of 
Rust-O-Leum and the can holds about 6-8 ozs of paint, but I mix the paint 
and catalyst in a measuring pitcher in small amounts and paint to my 
hearts content.  I've very satisfied with it as a "hobby painter."

Dwade

three 78 B's


On Wed, 16 Oct 1996, W. R. Gibbons wrote:

> On Tue, 15 Oct 1996, Robert J Donahue/DELCO wrote:
> 
> > >> 53 MG-TD, under DIY restoration (painting with aerosol Rust-Oleum)
> > >
> > >How's it coming?  I have plans to Rust-Oleum my 'B, after I find all of
> > >the sheetmetal panels I need.  Gloss Enamel, I'm assuming?  Does the
> > >Rust-Oleum look decent?
> > >
> 
> > It's looking pretty good so far. I'm doing one panel at a time which
> > I think helps when using spray cans. The bigger the area, the harder
> > it is to get a good smooth coat without runs or overspray. I know the 
> > B can't be disassembled like the TD, but maybe by masking up to the 
> > seams it can be painted one area at a time. One thing I've found with
> > the spray cans is that each pass must be adjacent to a pass that is still
> > quit wet. If you wait too long or go back to an old area, the overspray
> > won't completely "melt" into the old pass. This results in areas that
> > are dull. This is way large pieces like the TD wings are harder to do.
> 
> > I have a question about enamel for the group. Can a dull area be made
> > glossy by polishing or buffing, or do these techniques only apply
> > to lacquer paint? If polishing works, what kind of compound should I
> > buy?
> 
> I doubt it, unless you would be satisfied with a satin finish.  Buffing 
> works with laquer and with catalyzed enamel.  Once you sand the skin of 
> rustoleum, I seriously doubt you can restore much gloss by buffing.
> 
> > Also, does anybody with experience with Rust-Oleum gloss enamel have 
> > any opinions on how it will hold up compared to regular automotive paint?
> 
> It will probably stay on and protect the metal, but the gloss is not 
> likely to last long.  I used semigloss rustoleum on a lot of suspension 
> parts, and it has held up well.  It is dull, but it's supposed to be.
> 
> > 
> > Any painting advice in general would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> You have probably already learned by now that you must follow rustoleum 
> label instructions regarding recoating.  Either recoat within a short 
> time, or wait several days--otherwise the paint will wrinkle.  Bizarre, 
> isn't it, paint that can't easily be used over itself.
> 
> I personally would not think the savings are worth the trouble and the
> chance you will reduce the value of the car and/or not find the result
> pleasing.  I'd invest in a compressor and spray equipment, or else have a
> professional paint the car.  The finish will be far better and far more
> durible. 
> 
> Ray
> 
>    Ray Gibbons  Dept. of Molecular Physiology & Biophysics
>                 Univ. of Vermont College of Medicine, Burlington, VT
>                 gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu  (802) 656-8910
> 
> 

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