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Re: Spax tube shock conversion

To: "Jurgen Hartwig" <gt0003a@prism.gatech.edu>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Spax tube shock conversion
From: "Bill Lattimer" <m22@skypoint.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 07:03:06 -0600
> Ohhh, I'm so excited since my shocks just got here today.  I can't wait
> to put them on my B.  I'm replacing the rear shocks and leaf springs on
> my '70 MG tomorrow.  Does anyone have any hints for me?
>
Have a VERY sharp hacksaw. :)  I had to cut every single bolt & hanger out
of my '70 'B.

> I just have a
> general idea of how to do it.  I just figure I need to jack the rear end
> up and start unbolting everything(after the car is supported very well
> of course).  Has anyone done this work before?  If so, how did you
> approach it?
>
You've got the right approach. You'll want to have support for the diff;
don't rely on the hangers to hold the thing in place.  I also found it a
lot easier to drop the front bolts first to give you "manuvering room" to
get the rear hangers out.  These may be kinda frozen in as well; I ended up
using a crowbar and a punch to pry them out.
 
> Also, if there is any interest, I'd be happy to report on how my car
> handles after the conversion.  Is it really worth it?  I hope.
>
I've been VERY happy with my SPAX conversion.  Set to 1, it's about the
same as my old, worn hydraulics - great for crusing on skinny wire wheels.
At 14, with my Minilites, it corners on rails.  SUGGESTION: put LOTS of
loctite on the bolts, and check 'em real quick every oil change.  The newer
kits (3 bolts on the front) don't seem to suffer the same problems as the
older, 2-bolt kit, but I have found these a bit loose after an auto-x or
two.

BTW, don't damn the Brits for the ride height of the '78...that fault lies
on THIS side of the pond. :(


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