Blair Engle wrote:
>
> > I've got a 1950/51 (we're not sure-there are two titles) TD.
> > The engine was recently rebuilt "professionally" by a well respected
> > former Jaguar mechanic. Everytime I stop, I leave a 3 inch puddle of
> > oil. His explanation is that all TD's leak from the rear oil main and
> > there is nothing he can do. This rebuild cost me over $4000!! Do I have
> > grounds to complain???? HELP!!!!!
> >
> Roger....
> First let me say, congratulations for getting a T type thread going in this
> group.
> Second and most importantly I must agree with Mike, Geoff and Jarl that you
> do have a great deal to complain about. Your engine should not leak at all
> from the rear crank seal. I would not complain about a few drops after 50
> miles, but any more then that is totally unacceptable. (At our MG club in
> Orlando, FL we used to judge the condition of a rear seal as follows. Shot
> glass size, OK. Coffee cup size, not bad. Luncheon plate size, join the club.
> Dinner plate size, keep you eye on the dip stick. Pizza size, time for and
> overhaul.)
> Now give and East Coast XPAG "Old Timer" a shot at your problem. As main
> bearings wear, the crankshaft is allowed to move up and down in direct
> relation to the amount of wear. New bearings, .001", worn bearings, as much
> as .005" or more. As the crankshaft moves up it wears on the rear oil seal
> (aluminum part) this must be replaced. As the crankshaft moves down it
> wears against the rear main bearing cap. When the engine is rebuilt and new
> bearings are installed this wear (clearance) which is now .005" or more,
> instead of .0015" remains. This is the location of almost all rear main
> bearing leaks on properly assembled XPAG/EG engines.
>
> There two solutions to this problem.
> One is the installation of the Moss Crankshaft Conversion Seal. Some people
> have had problems with these, but if installed properly, should solve your
> oil leak.
> The other solution is the one I have used for over 25 years, and has yet to
> give any problem. Have a competant auto machine shop, line-bore the main
> bearing caps and the aluminum rear seal. This will remove most of the
> excess clearance around the Archimedes screw.
> Infortunately any fix will entail complete disassembly of your engine, and
> quite frankly I am not sure your "Jaguar expert" is the man to do the job.
> If I can be of further help, feel free to contact me.
> Press on regardless,
> Blair Engle
> The Classic MG Shop
> 1950 TD
> 1953 TD Vintage Racer
> ______________________________________________________________
> Blair Engle engle@phy.fsu.edu
Yes, Blair. This is all good stuff but unfortunately for the chap who
started it all, it means that again he will have to have the engine
dismantled for the problem to be seen to properly. More expense. I
certainly agree he should find a man more experienced in MGs than a
Jaguar mechanic no matter how clever he is with Jags. Remember the old
saying? If you have a large leak of oil beneath your T-Series you have
a problem; if you have a small leak everything's fine, leave it alone:
BUT if you have NO leak at all you've got a hell of a problem!
\Geoff Love, The English Connection.
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