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Re: Crankshaft bolt woes

To: "Berrie Watson (ADM)" <bwatson@bayflash.stpt.usf.edu>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft bolt woes
From: EMILY COWEN <ecowen@cln.etc.bc.ca>
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 1997 23:14:17 -0800 (PST)
Hi Berrie Watson!!

On Sat, 22 Mar 1997, Berrie Watson (ADM) wrote:

> now am trying to figure out how to take the main crankshaft bolt off
> without turning the engine.  In looking around, I can't find a way to
> brace the engine to get enough torque on the bolt.  And is it reverse
> threaded?

Well, can you get your hands on a good impact wrench?  You'll need
something with a lot of ft-lbs of torque, and the nut will just turn
off without you having to get elaborate in holding the crank.

If my memory serves me, the bolt is fine thread, right handed.
 
> valve, and a blown head gasket between Number one and two.  My mechanic
> advised me to replace my cam too, since my tappets are pitted- he reasoned
> that the worn lobes on the cam caused the valve to burn.  ?  I am also

Hmmm, I can't see the correlation between worn down lobes, and burnt
valves/seats.  Why would a pitted cam-follower cause a burnt valve?

> going to replace my piston rings also- .  It upsets me to think that I am
> going to do all of this, and it may still be my main bearings!? 

If you're going to do the head, and the piston ring lands, and rings,
get in there and check the main bearing clearances with some
plastigauge.  After checking the clearances of each journal, you should
also do a visual by pulling the caps.  Main bearing shells are
relatively cheap to replace once things are opened up.

> My wife has given me permission to invest all the time and effort needed
> to restore the B, then I will sell my new 95 isuzu truck!  Man, life is
> good.

You'll only get ONE SHOT at this job, so don't cut corners on the
basics.  The little woman won't be so lenient if the "B" can't be
trusted to be reliable...                                               

If you don't already have a FACTORY SHOP MANUAL, get one.  Follow its'
advice and specifications, and if your mechanic wants to deviate from
oem, you'll be able to ask pertinent questions, with reference to the
book.  Don't waste your money on the Haynes/Clymer ilk.  They're fine
for light maintenance, but not for a rebuild.

TTUL8r, Kirk Cowen

ps- I've never understood why a guy will spend thousands on a car, 
and then go cheap to save $20-$30 on a reference source like a manual

pps- Not a flame on you, just an observation from reading these posts


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