Hi everyone, it's me again,
A few weeks ago I asked for advice on how to get an MGB to cope with our
extremeley hot summers. (Yes, Victoria, it really does reach 120F in Phoenix.)
I'd like to thank everyone that responded, and summarize. (summerize? ;)
Robert Allen wanted my body. Oops, in context, he said "Your ISP is
AZTech.Net? You're in Phoenix? Sell me your rust-free car!"
Sorry, Bob. "Princess Di(e) is part of the family, she's not for sale... yet."
He did make some reccomendations, though:
a) Back timing off two degrees
b) Run two flats (+- RCH) rich
c) If air pump still there, leave belt off for the summer
d) 180 or 165 degree thermostat
e) run demister/heater when temp above 3/4
f) install a working windhield wiper system but run jets
to front of radiator -- use when close to hot
g) take all the paint off your radiator
h) run oil cooler below radiator so it doesn't obstuct heat
i) devise use of temp operated fan clutch
j) oil pressure good? run staight 30 weight
k) every time temp guage ofer 7/8's stop at tavern
l) seal top/around radiator so air must go through it
m) run fresh-air hoses to stock intake horns
n) switch to a night job
o) run 4 more pounds of air in tires (or max)
p) take all the extra crap out of boot
Glen Christian also suggested a 160 thermostat.
Scott Hower Suggested: Heavy duty radiator?? Redline Water Wetter??
Radiator Ducting??" He also suggested wrapping the exhaust manifold in
fiberglass header tape, but noted that this would probably reduce the
lifetime of the manifold.
W. R. Gibbons liked my name.
Chris Reichle suggested a kenlow electric fan, water wetter, and a 160
thermostat.
John Flintstone suggested a custom (thicker) radiator.
Todd Mullins had some comments on some of Robert Allen's suggestions:
He made a cautionary note about leaving the belt off of the air pump:
"Note that the air rail will be chick full of exhaust gasses, with only
the check valve to prevent them from backing up the pump. I don't
know ho how much thermal abuse this stuff can take, buth you might think
about this."
He liked (loved) the idea of the windshield jets, and suggested some
improvements including a temperature idiot light signal to trigger the
washer pump.
Like many others (I'm sure), he also liked the idea of stopping of at a pub,
when things got too hot.
And finally, he suggested a four-row radiator, and noted that water was more
efficient than 50/50 but lacked anti-corrosive properties and water pump lube.
He also mentioned water Wetter.
Thomas James Pokrefke, III mentioned dishwashing liquid as an additive.
This touched off a discussion with such participants as David Councill
David Littlefield contributed some vague stats to the water vs. 50/50 vs.
Water Wetter discussion, with a final suggestion of 50/50 + Water Wetter.
Michael Richard noted that Water Wetter did not appear to help his Jensen
Interceptor. He noted that an oil cooler doesn't contribute directly to
engine coolness, but a "happy motor is a cooler motor". Yet another mention
mention of a good radiator and a 160 thermostat. A passing mention of an
electric fan and (drastically) cutting louvers into the bonnet/hood to at
least help with the symptoms of higher temperatures by getting more air to
the carb(s)
Kirk Cowen took exception to this last statement.
Chris Delling noted a joke that could be played with soap, and reccomended
Water Wetter.
Robert Allen provided the following URL
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/lubricants-redline.html which is a synopsis
of an old interview with a RedLine spkesperson. He then highlighted the
interesting bits of the page and pointed out that "you *can* cool an
engine too much. The ideal temperature for coolant is 190 F."
James Howard noted that his 72 B never overheaded even in my exact conditions.
His 67 B was another matter, and he's assuming internal blockage and will be
pulling the cylinder head sometime soon.
James also noted that white convertible tops with zip-out windows are much
cooler on the driver than black tops with fixed windows. [ Ed. I've already
been there, but I hated how the white top looked. I know that Di is "a
beater", but the white top just didn't look right. ]
JWidell625@aol.com noted that Phoenix is hotter than the Fl Keys, but that
he (she?) 's never had a problem with overheating a 77 B. The suggestion
was an electric fan.
I apologize if I omitted anyone's comments.
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It's bareley reached 100F here, and Di's holding up just fine so far. I have
a suspicion that previous years' problems were excaserbated by a dying water
pump and internal blockage (which was cleared out when the new water pump was
installed.) (OTOH, What do I know? I rate about a 10 on a scale of 0-100 for
mechanical skill/knowledge.)
The next 10-20 degrees are what worry me, and I'll be watching that needle
closely and reviewing everyone's suggestions and leaning toward the low-cost,
zero/easy modifications first. (I think I'll avoid the soap, though.)
Thanks again, everyone. This list is even more helpful than most of the
computer-specific mailing lists that I subscribe to. Enthusiasm sure seems
to make a difference!
--
Steve
'74 MGB
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