I found that on my 80 which I lowered with stiffer springs, the monroe kit
that moss sold did not fit right. The shocks were not long enough. I played
around with changing the bracket positions and finally went to napa and
picked up a pair that were a little longer. It took me about two years to
give up trying to find the right position for them. Running over a 10" rock
that was skidding across the highway took out my back right tire, wheel and
shock so I decided to get a new set a little longer. I could not believe the
difference. Apparently, under the best shock position, the rear end was
hanging by the shock on very hard turns. The original shock was to short and
did not have enough trvel from all closed to fully expanded to match the
suspension's capabilities. According to the guy at napa, their shocks are
made by monroe although I noticed they were not as stiff. If you take the
shock with you they can either cross reference it or measure it fully closed
and open and fine a replacement shock.
For the stud use a stud remover... It looks like a spark plug socket but
inside are three cylinders on cams, they rotate inward as you turn the
socket counter clockwise. It sounds like you have enough stud left to use
one. they are designed to grab near the base of the stud where there are no
threads to mash. The harder you pull on the breaker bar the tighter the stud
remover grabs the stud. Be carefull not to break off the last part of the
stud and don't hurt yourself.
Chris Reichle
****
has anyone come up with a suitable replacement (other than spax) for
these shocks? while i'm not terribly unsatisfied with the kmb(?) shocks,
i know that they will need to be replaced in the near future. does
anyone know of a monroe, gabriel, etc (ie. readily available from a
local parts store) shock part number that will 1) fit the system on
car, and 2) provide a bit more comfortable ride? i'm assuming that
the mounting for the system on my car is the same as the newer
conversions on the market.
thanks,
robert williford
73 mgb
oh yeah, anyone have any recommendations for removing a broken water
outlet stud? 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of stud is protruding from the
head. i've tried lots of wd-40 and vise grips, but to no avail. i
really don't want to drill, tap, and helicoil, so any advice is very
welcome.
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