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Re: Clutch Problem

To: Dean Crowley <dcdccccckc@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem
From: Robert Allen <boballen@sky.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 22:07:14 +0100
Hi Dean,

Thanks for the kind words about the C/GT and I'm glad you're going to
the All British meet this weekend. It looks like it will be hot so
please introduce yourself and your cooler.

I have vast and wide knowledge on lots of things but none of that has
ever been wasted on 'A' clutch hydraulics.

On my C/GT the spring broke that is inside the clutch master cylinder.
That caused the problems you described. I cobbled together two short
springs from the parts bin of the hardware store until I could find a
correct replacement. That was 4 years ago, never did get around to
finding that proper replacement that didn't have a new master cylinder
wrapped around it.

The TR6 has a clutch return spring on the pedal. I don't remember if the
C/GT does. The TR6 certainly drags the pushrod out of the cylinder every
time.

I am not a believer of silicon fluid. To the point that I bled and
replaced the silicon in the TR6 brake system. Notice I didn't say
complete flushed, blew dry, and spit shined -- to the contrary of
others, the stuff appears to be compatible with Castrol LM DOT 4 the
last 6 months. There was a lot of gunk and corrosion in the TR6 brake
master that silicon was supposed to have done away with -- oh well.

An aquaintance of mine did a total rebuild of his brake system with
silicon. The brakes held very well -- and never released again.
Incompatible with the rubber. Switched back to DOT 4 after a complete
flush. No more problems. Enough to know in my book.

The little brass spring washers go underneath the rubber seal at the end
of the piston (towards the peddle). It is there to allow fluid into the
piston when you let off the peddle.

Don't the 'A's have adjustable pushrods between the pedal and the master
cylinder? If so make damn sure there is some play in that. Having it
'snug' is a no-no.

If you have that combination brake/clutch master cylinder you are
completely on your own.

I have forwarded this note to the MGS list maintained by majordomo.
Maybe some of those folks can pass along some useful perls of wisdom. I
highly recommend subscribing to the list if you don't mind 70 to 100
messages a day. Occasionally there are some interesting and learned
technical tips that apply to our cars. Often it is senseless ranting,
juvenile boasting, potty humor, and spleen venting and it is all I can
do to contribute my fair share.

Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69CGT, '75TR6, '61Elva(?)
"Farm Politics: Never wrestle with a pig. You just get dirty and,
besides, the pig likes it."

Dean Crowley wrote:
> 
> Hi, My Name is Dean Crowley. Nice MGC, by the way. I live in
> Wichita and own an MGA that is almost back on the road after a
> restoration. Problem is that after many, many attempts at getting the
> master cylinder to work properly it still sticks. The plunger on the
> clutch sticks in. It has been bleed. Many times. New kit, I know the
> parts are together properly. At least I think so. There are some little
> brass spring washers I was not to sure about but I don't think they are
> the problem. I am going to try another rebuild kit. Any other
> suggestions? By the way, What do you think of the silcone fluid? Could
> that be the problem..... I hate to have to change it back. All new
> clutch, rebuilt slave, new plate, pressure plate, piviot are bushing,
> bolt, pushrod pins, ect..... everything new..... Hmmmmmmm
> What do you think.
> 
> I will be in KC. for the car show this weekend. Maybe see ya there...Not
> with the MGA I am afraid...
> 
> Thanks,
> Dean Crowley

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