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Re: HEELLP!

To: Palmer Family <amesfolks@snovalley.com>
Subject: Re: HEELLP!
From: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 11:07:37 -0400 (EDT)
 I thought you ment all the parts. I'm not sure about the Midget but Moss
sells the valves for the MGB Armstrong shocks. The front is part #264-345
and the rear is part 267-975. Now the question is, assuming that the
shocks
don't leak will these fix a shock that has no strength left in it? Anyone
have any experience with putting new valves in?
...Art

On Sat, 11 Oct 1997, Palmer Family wrote:

> I don't want a complete rebuild. I just need the valve!
> 
> signed,
> BARRY PALMER
> amesfolks@snovalley.com
> 72 MG Midget (Sparky)
> 
> ----------
> > From: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>
> > To: Palmer Family <amesfolks@snovalley.com>
> > Cc: Mg List <mgs@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: HEELLP!
> > Date: Saturday, October 11, 1997 6:03 AM
> > 
> >     Parts are not available to do a complete rebuild.
> > ...Art
> > 
> > On Fri, 10 Oct 1997, Palmer Family wrote:
> > 
> > > I did as mgdave told me.  My shock now locks up going one direction (in
> > > vise practically standing on it and it bairly moves). My new question
> is:
> > > 
> > > I think it is the valve at the bottom. Can I buy a replacement? (No
> parts
> > > breakdown in vikky or moss.)
> > > 
> > > signed,
> > > BARRY PALMER
> > > amesfolks@snovalley.com
> > > 72 MG Midget (Sparky)
> > > 11 more months. I WANNA DRIVE!
> > > 
> > > > From: MGDAVE@aol.com
> > > > Barry, 
> > > > 
> > > > I have had good results from pouring out old fluid (into waste oil
> > > recycling)
> > > > and cleaning in a parts washer sink (kerosene in a bucket will work).
> 
> > > Next
> > > > day (allow solvent to evaporate), put shock in a vice with the hatch
> > > pointing
> > > > up (you removed all the phillips screws prior to cleaning) pour that
> > > opening
> > > > about half full of shock fluid (hydraulic jack fluid). Slowly work
> the
> > > shock
> > > > arm back and forth. You will see bubbles escaping. Add back fluid to
> > > maintain
> > > > same level. As bubbles slow, and eventually stop, the shock arm will
> get
> > > > harder and harder to move. When all bubbles are gone, fill completely
> > > with
> > > > fluid and put cover back on. Then rearrange in vice so the fill port
> is
> > > upper
> > > > most. Remove the fill plug and slowly drop additional fluid in with 
> a
> > > > dropper.  Work shock as before until all bubbles have now escaped
> from
> > > filler
> > > > hole and shock is completely full of fluid. Put the plug back in and
> make
> > > > sure exterior is dry.  Work shock some more to check for fluid leaks.
> > > They
> > > > occur where the arms go into the body.  If you see leakage there, uou
> > > need to
> > > > replace or send out for repair.
> > > 
> 


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