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Re: '69 Brake Job

To: KYBP79A@prodigy.com
Subject: Re: '69 Brake Job
From: williem@mindspring.com
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 17:25:12 GMT
Dan,=0D
you must have a wire wheel car.  For those the removal is a little diffe=
rent.=20
You must pull on the stud without damaging the threads to remove the gre=
ase
cap (the stud you see is attached to the end of the grease cap).  My
recollection is that this stud is 7/16  NF.  Get a nut started on the end=
 of
the stud, grab the nut with some pliers from the end, pull straight out =
while
rocking a bit from side to side.  Once the grease cap is out you will se=
e the
split pin.  Rotate your splined hub until a small hole in the splines (u=
sually
full of old grease) is aligned with the end of the split pin.  Reach thr=
ough
the hole with needle nose pliers and pull the split pin out.  You can th=
en
remove the nut (seems like this takes a 1 1/8 socket) and proceed to rem=
ove
the hub from the spindle.  Reassembly is the reverse of the above.=0D
=0D
Bill=0D
=0D
>-- [ From: Dan Henson * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] --=0D
>=0D
>=0D
>  OK fellow listers, it is time to replace brake pads on my '69 'B=0D=

>roadster.  I want to do it right and also replace the rotors or have=0D=

>them turned but I cannot figure how to get them off!  The manual refers=
=0D
>to a split pin but I have what appears to be a grease cap with a=0D
>threaded stud sticking out about 1/2".  How do I get to the famous=0D=

>castellated nut?  =0D
>=0D
>  And also is there a generic brake bleeder screw that the local auto=
=0D
>shop would have?  Mine are badly rounded and in need of replacement. =
=0D
>Why are they made of such soft metal anyway?=0D
>=0D
>   Thanks, Dan in NC=0D
=0D
=0D


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