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Re: TD Clutch Linkage

To: mgbob@juno.com
Subject: Re: TD Clutch Linkage
From: Bob MGT <BobMGT@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 18:30:39 EST
In a message dated 98-03-25 16:47:55 EST, you write:

> Hi Bob,
>    I, too, missed the original posting.
>    Last spring I went through the job of filling all the holes and
>  re-drilling to fit the new clevis pins. It made a big difference.
>    Before starting the project, I talked to a couple of guys about using
>  the cable and modifying the rods.  The only one who liked the cable is a
>  repair professional to whom I have never gone for service. Nobody liked
>  the idea of modifying the rods. All thought that the system worked pretty
>  well as designed, and recommended repairing the rods. 
>    One wonders why MG discontinued the cable in favor of the rods and
>  pivots. It seems to work OK on the cars that I have driven, MG built 20+
>  thousand TDs before changing, and there sure is a lot less machinery
>  hanging out there in the oil, water, salt and dirt.
>    To do the job 100% it's necessary to fill and drill the hole on the
>  clutch lever at the bell housing.  I did not have the energy left to
>  remove that, but I did all the other pivots, including removign the sump
>  so that that pivot could be swapped to the other side.  It looks as
>  though it should be tapped into the thick aluminium, but it has a nut on
>  the inside.
>    I thought that while at it I should change the bushings in the chassis.
>   Turned out to be a miserable job, and the change made no difference in
>  pedal feel. OTOH, we learned about that pedal grease nipple in 1954 or
>  so, thus this pedal shaft has always been greased regularly.  Unless the
>  shaft is really floppy, I would recommend avoiding that job unless the
>  floorboards are out or the body off the car. 
>  Bob

Bob:

Thanks for the info. Another thing I'm wondering about is how the clutch
linkage should be lubed. The rod style linkage has several exposed
bearing points. Can anybody recommend a lubricant that won't wash off
easily? Maybe the reason for those oblong holes was a lack of lubrication
in the first place. Must be hell for a mechanism living underneath the
chassis.

Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
71 MGB   - AMGBA #96-12029, NAMGBR #7-3336

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