Bill / Larry
Could it be boiling fuel / evaporation?
Is this what you mean by 'fuel percolation' Larry?
Chris Nevard
http://www.geocities.com/~spridgeteer
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From: Bill Eastman
To: mgs@autox.team.net; macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
Subject: Re: Hard to start when warm
Date: 20 August 1998 15:08
From: Larry Macy wrote:
<<<snip> it is hot, it is hard to restart if only off for a few minutes.
Timing is set to 16 BTDC.
Plugs are at 0.02
points are 0.015(best as I recall off the top of my head)
Timing is a little advanced, book says 10 BTDC. Plugs a little wide 0.015
(I think). Weber DGV >>>
Larry,
No doubt it's the DGV- don't those belong on Pintos? ;-) Seriously, the
only setting I see in your list that raises suspicion is point gap. I
would open it up to .025 if the ignition is stock or wider if you have
mods. That would probably help low speed firing even if you don't
understand coil theory ;-)
What does it do when it doesn't start? If it just turns and turns rapidly
without firing, I would suspect the coil, fuel percolation, or a leaky
needle valve causing flooding. If it kicks back against the starter when
hot, you may want to retard the timing a tad or you may have some carbon
buildup. If it turns over slowly when hot but faster when cold you may
have bad bushings in the starter. As a wild card I would also check for
oil scum or bubbles when running in the radiator just in case it is a head
gasket. A bad battery cable or connection can have its resistance go up
when it is hot.
Whenever I have driveability issues, the first thing I do is give the A a
tune up. Only after making sure that all adjustments (valves, points,
plugs, timing) are where I want them will I touch the carbs or start
troubleshooting. It doesn't take long and, like any other science
experiment, you want to eliminate as many variables as you can prior to
starting.
Regards,
Bill Eastman
61 MGA which runs better after fixing the roadside tune up it was given at
Thunder Bay (points were set at .020- eek! I just don't see as well as I
used to)
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