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Cylinder Head Replacement 73B

To: "MG Mailing List" <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Cylinder Head Replacement 73B
From: "Nick Coleman" <coleman@sd.aonix.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:19:02 -0700
Getting ready to install the new aluminum head on the 73B.  Bought it with
the valve job already done.  Just need to make sure that I've the install
procedures down.

Torque Values (concerned that they might be different for an aluminum head):
        - Head Bolts: 50lbs
        - Rocker Bolts: ?

Assume I shouldn't worry about shimming the center rocker since the head
hasn't been shaved.

I plan to torque all the bolts in sequence.  Run the engine up to operating
temp, let it cool down, then go back through the sequence torquing the
bolts.
        - Will I need to torque the later?

I also plan to remove the air pump.  I bought the emission head in case I
have to put it back on.
        - Believe the air injection holes take 7/16 allen head bolt (correct?).
        - On the two Gulp Valve hoses going into the intake manifold,
          what is the best way block off those intake holes.

A friend mentioned that I should consider replacing the engine studs.  He is
into SCAA racing and said he's seen that cause a problems before.  I suspect
that is because the engines get torn down and rebuilt often, plus are put
under a lot of stress when racing.

However, I seem to remember an article that suggested that when replacing
the head, you should pull the #3 stud.  Check it and clean out the hole.

Thanks in advance,

Nick
73B  NAMGBR


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