Jim:
Check the fuse box for corrosion between the riveted connections
on the back. The problem is not the ignition switch! If the car runs,
then the switched circuit is getting power through the ignition switch.
The next point is the fuse box. The power is fed from the white leads
through riveted connections to the fuse that feeds the green leads. The
green leads are the circuits that are not working. I suggest replacing
the fuse box, as this problem reoccurs and there is no way of cleaning
the areas effectively.
kelvin.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Campbell [mailto:ja_campbell@email.msn.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 1998 7:59 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Electrical Failure
I'm a first time writer to this forum. I have the following problem on a
1978 MGB:
While driving one night, I noticed the tach, temp gage, fuel gage, and
turn
signals no longer worked. Upon arrival at home, the following additional
items were OOC: heater blower, brakes lights, back-up lights, side
markers,
wipers.
These items worked: the ignition(the car starts), radio, lights, fuel
pump,
interior lights, and buzzer.
I concluded the problem to be with the ignition switch. Additionally,
the
mechanical lock on the ignition switch does not lock the wheel after the
key
is removed. I have no power to the source side of the fuse block on
three of
four fuses.
I am debating whether to take the car to a shop to have the ignition
switch
replaced(I've heard that job is not for the novice, home-garage
mechanic) or
keep trying to find another(easier to fix) problem, but all clues point
to
the ignition switch on the steering column.
Are there any other ideas? Should I attempt to undertake the switch
replacement and, if so, are there any helpful hints?
Thanks,
Jim Campbell
ja_campbell@msn.com
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