Mark Rayborn wrote:
> How do I tell if my engine has been bored before? From my measurements,
> the bore is about 3.16, which I believe is factory spec. However,
> pistons 1 and 3 are different from 2 and 4. They look newer and less
> worn also. Seems like I read where the pistons should be stamped with
> the oversize number. Is that right? All I see is AE 17525 on the newer
> ones. Does this mean anything to anyone?
>
If the engine has been bored, the machinist should have stamped some
number in several places on the top end of the block. This would be the
surface which mates to the cylinder head. The number will indicate the
overbore time 10 thousanths.
> The big end of the #1 rod shows quite a bit of wear (grooved about 1/32
> inch deep) on the side of it. Is this significant? I was thinking of
> replacing the rods anyway. Any opinions? While on the rod subject: These
> are the kind that use no nuts. My Vikki Brit catalog shows them as being
> used only on earlier engines until '67. My engine number places it as
> manufactured in '70. Which rods should I use?
>
I'm not real sure about this one. I presume you're talking about the
con rod itself and not the bearing surface. If this is the connecting
rod, it would seem that you've spun a bearing somwhere along the line.
I would think that the rod is still OK since the bearing usually takes
all the wear.
> Now for the big question My local NAPA has a machine shop. I called
> them today and they said they would be happy to do the machine work
> although they are not too familiar with the B engine. They said that
> they would be unable to do the cam bearings if they were the
> "semi-finished type". They said they did not have the means to bore the
> bearings in place. Can someone tell me if that will be necessary on the
> B?
>
Try to find another machine shop. As I recall, the cam bearings need
to be bored out once they are installed. Now that you have the engine
out, it would be a false economy not to renew them.
> The shop guy also advised against magnafluxing the engine block unless I
> already suspected it was cracked. What do you think?
>
I agree. The block itself is difficult to crack. Magnafluxing the head
should be done though.
The cylinder head will probably need attention. I put hardened valve
seats in mine and have been very happy with the decision as my valves
were obviously receding at a fairly rapid pace. However, if the car
isn't driven a lot, this might not be worthwhile.
Good Luck,
Dave Ambrose
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