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Re: Points Gap and Timing (summary)

To: "Skye Poier" <skye@ffwd.bc.ca>, "MG Nuts" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Points Gap and Timing (summary)
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 16:27:41 -0000
-----Original Message-----
From: Skye Poier <skye@ffwd.bc.ca>
To: MG Nuts <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: 27 January 1999 00:56
Subject: Re: Points Gap and Timing (summary)


>In case anyone cares, here is the conclusion to a couple of questions I
>posed a while back:
>
>Word on the street is that Skye Poier said:
>> 1. I used a dwell meter to set the angle to 60 deg but now the points gap
>> seems much smaller than spec, like half of 0.015".  Is this normal or
>> indicitive of something?  Worn out points perhaps?  They do look a bit
>> tarnished.
>
>Worn points.  I used some 600 grit sandpaper to clean them and the dwell
>is now 60 degrees with a points gap close to spec.  I should just replace
>them, but I was curious what cleaning them would do.  Some people suggested
>ignoring the dwell reading and just setting the gap to spec, but my
>reasoning is, the whole purpose of the points gap is to set the dwell
>(although it also changes the timing somewhat) so dwell should be set to
>correct no matter what the points gap is.


This is indicative of having had a spike on one point and a corresponding
hole in the other.  If you were still having the mismatch it could indicate
worn distributor bearings.

>> 2. Once I got the dwell to 60 deg I had to rotate the dizzy clockwise
until
>> it wouldn't turn clockwise any more and I'm still advanced (timing light
>> shows about 5 BTDC and I'm aiming for at least 10).  What gives?  Can
>> it be turned more or is there something else?
>
>I could turn it more - it just gets very stiff after a certain point and
>I have to get in there with two hands.


Are your plug leads one position out?  Or it could be that the body has worn
to accept the clamp in one area and the clamp needs slackening a bit more.

PaulH.


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