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Re: Brake Master Cylinder

To: "BIDGOOD, ALAN" <BIDGOODA@pab27b.ssd.loral.com>,
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder
From: Ray Wygonik <rwygonik@grove.iup.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:37:34 -0500
You just missed a few posts on this subject.   The best suggestion is to use
compressed air in one of the outlet ports to force the bushing and innner
seal out.   I removed mine by drilling it until I destroyed it to the point
where I could pull it out.  I'd try the air first.  I had also try to pull
it our with a mini puller made out of a couple of sheet metal screws and a
short piece of metal.  Didn't work.

I was able to get a remanufactured master cylinder (with a lifetime
warranty) from Advanced Auto Parts for $35 plus a refundable $15 core
charge.
-----Original Message-----
From: BIDGOOD, ALAN <BIDGOODA@pab27b.ssd.loral.com>
To: 'MG List' <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 3:30 PM
Subject: Brake Master Cylinder


|
|Hi again all,
|
|I am attempting to do a rebuild on by brake master cylinder
| - I have a 1973 MGBGT dual line (tandem) non servo.
|
|I know many would recommend just replace with new, but for
|those who have performed a rebuild - how do you remove the
|White nylon bearing?
|
| - I have removed the spirelex ring, outer spring, circlip, but
|I can't get white piece out.  The book just says move the
|piston in and out a few times to remove it, but it is just stuck
|there, I can't even make it turn or move it at all.
|
|Thanks for you help.
|
|Alan B.'
|


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