Bill Saidel <saidel@crab.rutgers.edu> writes:
>Anyway, as I was removing the rear flange bolts, holding the nut with a box
>wrench and the head of the bolt with a socket wrench, I dropped the socket
>wrench and my nose reacted promptly and magnificently. My son said, "I
>thought that only happened in Jim Carey movies." Nope.
>Seriously, how do I remove the head caps? They seem to be quite stuck. The
>rubber washer between the cap and the 'spider" is very soft making a hit
>onto the inner side of the cap quite difficult. I've looked in Haynes,
>Bentley, and Porter's refurbishing book and all described a similar
>procedure which entails tapping on the yolk. When I do that, I hear clangs
>but nothing moves.
With all due respect to Haynes, Porter, et al, they are all from a country
that included bicycle sized tyre irons in many car tool kits clear into the
60's, like you'd like to try to dismount a modern tubeless, beaded tyre with
one of those overglorified Kmart screwdrivers! Get serious with thing before
you wreck the yokes and have to donate over $200 (the price otherwise of a
very nice steering wheel) to the folks at moss. GO to your nearest auto
machine shop and have them press the buggers out, and press the new ones in.
The $20 you spend will be well worth it, in time and frustration to say
nothing of saving you from having to buy a new driveshaft. BTW I have had
ujoints on lbcs that were so stuck it took ALL the pressure available from a
6 ton press to knock them loose, so consider that while you hammer away in
futility. <g>
Cheers
johnmowog
66B
68 BGT (btw FOR SALE, nice very nice, 4500 or trade/offer)
67 TR4A (ohmigosh how did that happen??!!!)
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