I have to chime in with a "me too"
I'm rather vexed at seeing the "conventional wisdom" stated time and time
again that "it costs as much to restore an MG (or Triumph) as an Austin or
Jaguar." This is given as a reason to NOT buy an MG or T/TR in need of
restoration, but rather to ONLY buy those not needing restoration. I've seen
it on web sites, in "buying guides" etc. etc.
Yes, there are good arguments why it's a better idea to buy an
already-restored or still-good car in the MG or T/TR price range (basically,
they're not THAT expensive and not THAT hard to find). But, I have NOT found
that it costs "as much" to restore one. It does take about as much time in
my experience, but used parts are cheaper and usually easier to find, whole
'parts cars' are cheaper, new parts are more readily available and in
general it costs notably less in terms of cold hard cash.
Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong...
Kris
----- Original Message -----
From: <Johnmowog@aol.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>; <pokrefke@netdoor.com>
Sent: Friday, July 23, 1999 4:14 PM
Subject: the E-type from hell...
> Run, do not walk to the nearest exit!
> Not to be tacky, but here's my analogy:
> You have fallen in love with the automotive equal of an tired old
foulmouthed
> streetwalker with several profession-associated diseases: Sure, you could
> adopt her, bring her in off the street, maybe make her well, even
> rehabilitate her,... but would it ever be worth the trouble ... when you
> already were married to the most beautiful, sexy and perfect wife you
could
> ever imagine? Such is the folly of the decrepid Jaguar.
> Some cars, like our B's, are almost always worth saving, because bad ones
are
> so cheap and used parts are available. This makes us foolish optimists
> regarding other LBCs. Many Jags will never be worth the trouble of
restoring,
> 'cause they are so difficult to save and so expensive as well...and good
luck
> finding used parts.
> I have to take issue with the poster who stated that they aren't much
> more expensive to restore than our B's. I guess the definition of restore
has
> to be made... with oem-type materials and quality I'd say they are much
more
> expensive, especially with bodywork involved.
>
> You didn't state year of car, with the automatic I assume it's a 68 or
later,
> and likely a 2+2, that being the most common application.
>
> A local collector-car lot here (norcal) has a quite beautiful 4spd 70
E-type
> coupe (shiny red, good interior, straight, runs good, etc) that he has
been
> trying for months to move, he started out at 18k, it's down around 12k
now...
> If you look around, even in over-priced hemmings you'll see decent
automatic
> coupes at 9-15k. Only show cars and dreamer dealers ask more. (I know back
in
> the rust belt things cost more... but that's why planes fly to
california...)
> 2+2s are even more depressed in value. The V12s bring a bit more, but are
a
> complete nightmare. If we assume you are looking at a 6cyl automatic 2+2,
> it's worth all of 10k. Restored. Maybe. (I know they are often asking more
> than these prices, but how many of those cars sell for asking price??)
> To be more specific, the E-Type is one of the hardest cars to get right
when
> doing body work. That bonnet is $5k new if you can find one. You could
easily
> spend close to that much buying replacement panels and welding it up.
Hinge
> supports are specially engineered and aligned, get them wrong and the
bonnet
> will never fit right and will scratch the bumbers on the pavement
everytime
> you open it, or simply break after 6 months. Quality of panel work and
> alignment is critical when repairing it because it is such a big part of
the
> car.
> The OEM interior kit, including seat kits, panels, carpet, will kill off
$3k+
> of your resto fund all by itself.
>
> It takes about a grand in parts and labor (not including R&R, which can be
> quite the adventure in it's own right) just to do the head half-right
> assuming it needs valves replaced etc, (less if it is just worn, I spent
$700
> on mine)..assuming you find a competent machinist, and please do not fall
> into the delusion that you can build and setup a jag head competantly
> yourself without prior experience or at least good help.
> If it is warped, it has to be heat-straightened, they cannot be milled
flat!
> The rest of the motor is more reasonable, as long as it hasn't been
abused.
> Thankfully, the 6 cyl usually stays together better than that... often a
good
> head rebuild and bearings and rings will do the trick, but is still
> relatively expensive compared to our humble mgb's.
> Then you still hafta paint it, Worse, they are so attractive when right
that
> you WILL spend what ever is needed on body and paint because they look so
> good when right. (the big trap)
> Then you must sort out the rear suspension and brakes, and fix all of the
> electrical gremlins you'll find... (the B is simple and frankly downright
> reliable electrically at least compared to that era jaguar...)
> Oh, did I mention that to replace the rear calipers or rotors the entire
rear
> suspension has to come out? Or that the U-joints in the driveshaft must
> either be replaced "in place" or you must move the motor off the mounts or
> alternately drop the rear suspension out again?
> Save your money for a nice one, or tackle something easier...
> like permanent world peace...<g>
> (If the guy will take a few hundred bucks for it, you could part out the
> motor for a profit....)
>
> --------------------------original message--------------------
> From: "Thomas James Pokrefke, III" <pokrefke@netdoor.com>
> Subject: Jag XKE
> I know some of you own E-Types, so I'll pose this question.
> There is an E-Type for sale locally for $6,000 us. The engine ran 'a
> few months ago', and probably will eventually need a rebuild. No
> problem there, I enjoy rebuilding engines. What is a ball park price
> for rebuild kits?
> The interior is in passable condition, but would eventually need new
> carpet. Ball park prices on carpet sets?
> The body is in near horrendous shape. There is a hole in the right
> front fender big enough to stick a child's head through (where did I get
> that from?!?). When I tilted the bonnet forward, it fell on the ground.
> I would have to manufacture and weld new supports in. I enjoy stuff
> like that. I am an amateur body-worker, so the dents, dings, and hole
> that the howitzer shell went through (just a joke) will not present too
> much difficulty.
> The car has an automatic tranny. I can live with that due to the fact
> that is also a hard top (ie - fixed head coupe). I like the idea of
> driving a british car and not taking a shower when it rains.
> I think I could have it if I offered $4000 cash. Does this seem to be
> too much???
>
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