Ummm, I don't think they're kidding about the 15 ft/lbs. You don't want
to strip the studs. Here's my recommendation:
Clean all surfaces thoroughly and test the manifold mating surfaces with
a straightedge to make sure they're flat.
Get a new gasket.
Make sure you have the proper nuts. They are rather sharp-cornered and
are about twice as deep as a standard nut (twice as many threads). Clean
both the nut and stud threads, too.
Don't use lock washers. At 15 ft/lbs they don't seem to get fully seated.
I'm sure the torque spec is for metal-to-metal, no lock washer
BTW, are you sure you have an air leak? The symptoms resemble a too lean
mixture. Sometimes you have to keep the choke on to keep it running.
There are ways to test for a leak involving flammable liquids but I don't
want to get into that since I've never tried it myself. Perhaps the
Haynes manual describes it. Good luck.
Tom Wagner had this to say:
>To the Wisdom of the Net:
>Can someone tell me what the setting is
>for the torque wrench for connecting the
>exhaust/intake manifold to the engine
>on a 67 MGB.
>The Hayes manual says about 15-16 lbs.
>but I think this is not the correct number
>as I think I have an air leak as the car
>won't start or run to good.
>So what is the correct number????
>72 TR 6
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.