once again, a reply worth printing and putting into a manual.
thanks Barney...
Kevin Richards
Barney Gaylord wrote:
>
> At 08:35 PM 1/14/00 -0500, Steve Schultz wrote:
>
> >.... replacing the Windshield Glass on my MGA and wondered if there is any
> difference between the Moss windshield and the Victoria British glass. Has
> anyone purchased a windshield from either of these suppliers? ....
>
> I dunno about VB, but I bought MGA glass from Moss a couple years ago, and
> it was a very nice piece merchandise. However, ....
>
> In the Moss MGA catalog there is a full page copy of a Service Memorandum,
> dated 2 July 1962, related to "Windscreen Reglazing". This makes a big
> deal about how you need to put a packing piece in the bottom frame rail to
> support the glass. This is to assure that the bottom corners of the glass
> do not sit on the L-shaped metal corner brackets inside of the frame, which
> is known to cause cracking of the lower corners of the glass. Well, the
> Moss supplied glass is different than the original glass. The general size
> of the piece is a bit larger in height, and then the edges are relieved a
> little for the first couple inches from each corner. This allows the glass
> to sit on the glazing rubber at the bottom without touching the corner
> brackets, and also eliminates the need for the extra packing piece in the
> bottom. Same goes for the other edges and corners of the glass, no way for
> the corners to touch anything except the glazing rubber. So, no extra
> packing piece is needed in the bottom frame (won't fit), and you can
> dispose of the original piece of wood you (may) find there.
>
> Next a caution note about the fasteners. The original windscreen screws
> were British Standard Whitworth (I think), looking for all the world like
> an American standard number 10 screw but with a different thread pitch.
> The original screws were 28 threads per inch (or something like that).
> Number 10 UNC and UNF threads are 24 and 32 threads per inch respectively,
> and SAE 10-32 is similar to the UNF standard. The new screws and all new
> brackets being supplied by Moss are nor #10-32 UNF (or SAE standard). The
> new screws are not compatible with the old brackets, and vice-versa.
> Disassembling an old MGA windscreen will probably result in damage to some
> of the original fasteners. It is highly adviseable to get a complete new
> set of fasteners before reassembly. Since the new screws are different
> pitch, it is also a good idea to get new tapping plates for the sides and
> corner brackets for the bottom corners. (No, I didn't forget the top
> corners, just getting to that).
>
> The next note of caution is about the top corner brackets. I have searched
> high and low, and from every conceivable source I know the new brackets are
> all garbage. With some the top posts are pointing in the wrong direction,
> some have the brackets too wide so they don't fit in the channels without
> serious filing, and most have the tapped holes misplaced so badly that it's
> impossible to get the screws installed. If someone has very recently
> purchased some of these top corner brackets that actually fit I would
> surely like to hear about it. Otherwise, I recommend you retain the
> original top corner brackets and very carefully run a #10-32 tap through
> all the holes. You may save about $25 and a lot of grief this way.
>
> If you have a MGA 1500 that does not have the later model top center latch
> installed, now might be a good time to consider installing one. I find
> this device does a really nice job of keeping the center of the top bow
> down at highway speed, in turn keeping out (most of) the wind and/or rain
> that might otherwise blow in your face. A tiny bit of soft rubber fastened
> under the front bow can take care of the rest of that problem. When you
> drill the top frame to accept the catch bracket screws you will be removing
> the chrome plating when you drill. Not to worry, as the underlying frame
> is brass there will be no rust to worry about.
>
> If you should perchance take this opportunity to have the frame re-chromed,
> don't forget to remove the "AUSTER" plate and drive rivets in advance.
> These bits are readily available and inexpensive.
>
> Before installing the glass, preassemble the entire frame to be sure the
> fasteners and brackets all fit nicely. Check inside the frame to be sure
> none of the screws protrude appreciably through the inside of the brackets
> where they could chip away at the edges of the new glass. A small abrasive
> wheel in a hand grinder can make short work of making the inner ends of the
> screws flush with the brackets.
>
> For final assembly put some soapy water on the glazing rubber and you will
> be able to easily (relatively speaking) press the new glass and the new
> rubber bit into the channels of the frame. After assembly the glazing
> rubber should protrude from the frame on both sides of the glass. Use a
> razor knife to trim the rubber flush with the edge of the frame.
>
> The rest of the job is mostly time, common sense and TLC, but not
> particularly difficult. Rise to the challenge, and enjoy the success.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
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