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Re: MGA Shift Lever(Part II)

To: barneymg@ntsource.com, movlas2@gte.net
Subject: Re: MGA Shift Lever(Part II)
From: JustBrits@aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 19:29:55 EDT
In a message dated 04/07/2000 3:49:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
barneymg@ntsource.com writes:

Ok guys, I think I can assist here (for free<G>):

<<  At 03:13 PM 4/7/2000 -0400, Michael Ohleger wrote:
 >.... I had no trouble removing the retaining ring, retentention spring and
 cover. .... I have found that the shift lever doesn't pull straight out as
 you stated. ....>>

Nope, won't 'cause it is "almost the same as T types.
 
 <<Okay,>> 
Doing a major <snip> here 'cause Barney is sorta correct.

Basically the pins a "staked" in position.  What this means is that after the 
pins and lever are properly "located" the edge of the "hole" is "bent" in 
with a drift in order to maintain position and not "float out".

<< You do not have to push the pins all the way back flush with the casting,>>

Actuallly, Barney, they should be "sunk" "just" enough to re-stake so the 
thing does not "lift out IN HAND".
 
'Course, eyeryone in the world knows you ARE the luckiest LBC'er in the world 
<G>.   No meanness meant.  Some folks are just plain lucky.  I am sincere 
here that for the majority members of the List, re-staking should be 
mandatory.  For those that have the miles and experiences of Barney, follow 
directions as per.

Other questions, please write direct.

Cheers...........

          Ed

PS:  If you go look at a B setup, it was changed to a threaded "locating pin" 
which is actually an easy "update" to the early "drift pin" setup.

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