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1954 MGTF 1500 RHD - Its Alive!!!! :-)

To: MG T List <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: 1954 MGTF 1500 RHD - Its Alive!!!! :-)
From: Kevin & Deana Brown <MGTRAutoXr@sprintmail.com>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 11:20:27 -0500
I finally got my '54 MGTF 1500 RHD on the road last weekend, for the
first time in 26 years.  For those of you that haven't seen my earlier
post about this car - I purchased it last November, for $8,000, after
the gentleman who had owned it had passed away.  The car (HDP26/8299,
XPEG/2187, built Nov. 30 - Dec. 1 1954) had been in dry storage since
1954 in Columbia Missouri.  According to Clausager's book this car was
only 1 of 19 code 26 (1500, RHD, Export) cars built in 1954 - I wonder
how many of those other 18 are still on the road and if any others are
in the USA? When I bought it nobody had even tried to turn over the
engine and I was told that their may have been a knock in the engine
when it was parked in '74.  The body and wood is in great shape, no rust
at all (even underneath) and only two minor dings, it had been resprayed
a non original BRG over the original Ivory.  The paint looks good from
10 feet away, but does have some scratches and chips.  The interior is
good, but also non original - black instead of the correct red and the
door panels don't have pockets in them,  but the seats and carpet are
all in great shape, perfectly adequate for now.  All of the side
curtains are also in great shape, with just a little yellowing of the
windows.  The top does have one small rip in it, but other than that is
good.  The bumpers had been painted, but I received a set of brand new
bumpers, overiders and attaching bolts with the car (purchased from Moss
Motors in 1974).  I also received a spare transmission, still in its
shipping crate, with the car.

After getting the car the car home I squirted a little oil in the
cylinders and on the valve train, put the car in gear and pushed it -
the engine turned right over with no problem at all - surprised me!  The
carbs were completely clean and free, no varnish or residue at all, the
block and radiator had been drained, as had the fuel tank (which also
appeared clean inside).  After cleaning the points and plugs, replacing
one cracked plug, cleaning the fuel pump points, replacing the flexible
fuel lines (thanks Ed for providing the correct lines!), filling up the
radiator and adding fuel, the car started right up.  The engine ran
great but I discovered that the source of the knock was the
transmission.

In the past few months I replaced the bad transmission with the spare
that came with the car (thanks to everyone for their help and advice),
installed new radiator hoses, fan belt, tune-up parts (plugs points,
condenser and dist, cap), new transmission seals and rubber mounts,
welded a broken transmission mount and installed a new throw out bearing
(I didn't touch the clutch).  I also rebuilt all of the wheel cylinders
(a hydraulic press, torch and air compressor works great for freeing
stuck wheel cylinder pistons!) and the master cylinder, installed new
rubber brake hoses and cleaned the brake shoes and drums (a 1 1/4-inch
socket works great for the rear axle nuts as does a 1-inch socket for
the front ones) and replaced the emergency brake cables.  I was amazed
that I was able to remove all of the brake lines, hoses and bleed valves
without rounding off any nuts, or resorting to the use of vice grips or
heat - I have a lot newer cars that I can't say that about!  I also had
5 new 165 R 15 Remington radials and tubes put on the car ($47 each for
the tires), since the original bias ply 155/190 15s were at least 30
years old - one was even made in Rhodesia which hasn't been called that
since 1974.

I got the brakes bleed out and drove it in to town, 6 miles away last
Saturday.  Despite the fact that I haven't touched the suspension at all
or touched the carburetors or valves, the car ran and drove great!  It
tracks straight handles well, the steering is tight and it runs strong -
no smoke and the oil pressure and temperature are exactly where they
should be!  It even ran right up to 80 mph with no problem.  Though when
I was on my way back the engine did start coughing and backfiring.  But
I discovered Sunday morning that it was only because the new tack drive
gearbox that I installed on the back of the generator wasn't screwed in
all the way and it was pivoting over and touching the coil wire screw on
the side of the distributor - thus grounding out the ignition.  I
quickly fixed that and took a 30 mile drive along the winding back roads
near our house, the car ran great and pulled strong going up the hills.
I was amazed to find out that all of the lights (including turn signals,
brake, tail, front, high and low headlight and dash lights) worked on
the car without my having to do a thing (all of which I considered a
minor miracle) - so much for all of the cracks about Lucas electronics.
All of the instruments alsowork.  The only problem that I'm having is a
high pitched vibration noise coming from the gear shift lever.  The car
doesn't vibrate at all and doesn't make much noise at all except for the
noise from the lever.  If I lay my knee hard against it the noise quits,
but I'm afraid that if I do that too much I will wear out the shift
forks.  The anti-rattle spring is in place, but I am running the
original gear shift housing extension on the TC transmission that I got
with the car - so I had the right the correct gearshift knob threads on
the lever.  I've put the carpeting back in place now and it isn't as bad
now, but is still annoying.  The noise seems to happen mainly under
load.

I plan to put about 250 miles on the car tomorrow driving to a British
car show in Columbia Missouri, it should be fun.  Take care everyone,
and for all of those out there who are working on (or dreaming about)
projects, persevere because it is worth it.

Kevin Brown  '54 MGTF  '64 MGB  '71 MGB V8  '74 TR6  '89 MR2
Odessa, MO



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