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Re: Bonding fiberglas

To: Michael Singleton <one_ton3@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bonding fiberglas
From: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:59:00 -0700
Interesting points, but... 

I assumed James was indeed going to duct the air from the scoop to the 
air cleaner. But I do not understand why you think this will raise 
underhood temperatures, since in a stock hood there is no scoop at all, 
so all the ambient air flowing into the engine compartment is coming from 
somewhere else anyway. His modification will have no effect on this air 
source whatsoever. So as far as I can see all this concern about the 
electronics overheating (or anything overheating) is completely 
unwarranted. Perhaps you are thinking of a situation with a full 
bellypan, or where all the holes in the radiator diaphragm are sealed.

Michael Singleton had this to say:

>Keep in mind that with your new ram air hood, most of the benefit will be
>largely cosmetic, unless you take a lot of time with ducting to the carb(s)
>and sealing the air flow within the ducts. Further, all of this ducting will
>raise the underhood temps, if it is done correctly, as the ducting will seal
>off much of the cool ambient air flowing into the engine compartment,
>leaving only air from through the radiator. Another consideration is to make
>sure that  the distributer, if it is like a Chevy unit - on top or the
>engine, remains cool enough so that any electronics in the distributer body
>don't get cooked. This became a major problem on one racer I was involved
>with - The combination of radical sealing of the intake air flow, engine
>heat, and an electronic ignition didn't work. So if you are using a
>non-mechanical distributer, consider getting some cooling air to it. Your
>street car will probably have higher underhood temps, because it is standing
>still, or at low speeds more than a race car at track speeds at Riverside.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.


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