I have done a couple of variations of the the procedure you detailed. The
latest was following the description in the Haynes manual.
1) Rotate the crank until number four valves are both at the bottom of their
travel. This being TDC on number 1.
2) Continue to rotate the crank until the timing mark (pulley) is lined up
with 10 degrees on the timing chain cover.
3) Line up the distributor to where the rubbing block is just openning the
points.
4) Attach cap and place number 1 wire on where rotor points (1342).
This I believe would mean that it is statically timed.
I see a difference in your description from my actions where you did not
mention step 2 above. When I do perform step two the valves on #4 piston
are now no longer both down. One is up and one is down. So that being I
will try your approach and leave out step 2.
Thanks
Dereck (getting that confidence back)
70 B
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Lawrie Alexander" <Lawrie@britcars.com>
To: "Dereck C" <derex39@hotmail.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: 70 MGB no start after complete rebuild
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 07:35:26 -0700
Instead of guessing at the ignition timing, why not set it properly and
eliminate the possibility that incorrect timing is the reason for your
non-starting? Here's what you do.........
Bring the engine to top dead center on Nos. 1 and 4.
Take off the valve cover and see which pair of rocker arms are loose on
their valves, No. 1 or No.4.
Replace the valve cover.
Take off the distributor cap.
Look at the points; the rubbing block should be on one of the lobes of the
distributor cam and the points should be just opened. (Remember, the
distributor cam rotates counter clockwise). If this is not so, loosen the
distributor and make it so.
Look at the distributor cap. Remember which cylinder had the loose rockers
(Step 2, above). Determine which of the four contacts in the cap is closest
to the brass end of the rotor, then take the plug wire from that terminal to
whichever of No. 1 or No. 4 had the loose rockers. Then replace the cap and,
going counter clockwise, fit the rest of the wires in the order 1-3-4-2.
Now you know the timing is in a near-enough position that the engine should
start so you can then set the timing correctly. Incidentally, timing with a
timing light should be done when the engine is running, not statically.
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
-----Original Message-----
From: Dereck C <derex39@hotmail.com>
To: dcouncil@imt.net <dcouncil@imt.net>; derex39@hotmail.com
<derex39@hotmail.com>; mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: 70 MGB no start after complete rebuild
>
>Sorry, I changed the wires too. When you say remove the distributor and
put
>it in 180 the other way, there is only one way that the chuck (proper
term?)
>will line up on this model - the slots are offset. I was just going to
>rotate the wires 180 degrees. Won't that work? Or should I remove the
>distributor drive gear and reinsert it 180 degrees. Honestly, I don't see
>how that would make a difference. If it does please please enlighten me.
I
>am close to my wits end.
>
>Dereck
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