If you have the timing light pick-up on No 1 and the light illuminates the
mark on the pulley by the marks on the cover then your leads aren't 180
degrees out. At least, only if the pulley is 180 degrees out also! Check
for spark at each plug lead, remember 1342 *anti*-clockwise (or can you
already suck eggs?).
With the distributor cap off you should be able to flick the points open and
draw a spark from the king-lead at least 1/4" long and quite possibly up to
1/2" long. If you can do that there is nothing wrong with your spark. If
the points are arcing and the spark barely reaches 1/8" the condenser is
bad.
Have you checked the plugs after all that cranking? If they are sopping wet
the engine is flooded, try no choke and max throttle. If they are bone dry
no fuel is getting through. They should smell distinctly of fuel.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dereck C <derex39@hotmail.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 2:39 PM
Subject: 70 MGB no start after complete rebuild
> 1) Car quit running June 98, thought to be lack of fuel
> 2) Rebuilt carbs using Lawrie's video and other manuals, no change
> 3) Compression check, seals found to be very poor (2 cracked pistons and
> multiple broken rings)
> 4) June 98 - Feb 2000 accumlate multiple parts (new pistons, reground cam,
> aluminum head (original cracked))
> 5) March 2000 components taken to machine shop to be machined and balanced
> 6) June 2000 - July 2000 reassembled the block (new bearings, rings,
> gaskets, oil pump, clutch assembly, copper head gasket) using the rebuild
> video, haynes, shop manual, Twist's instructions
> 7) August 2000 attached transmission, hoisted into to car, attached all
> accessories (new battery).
> 8) Attempt to run - wrrr, wrrr, wrrr. Timed (18GH) engine statically 10
> degrees, very very weak spark - deduced bad capacitor (replaced points,
> capacitor, rotor, cap, wires, coil)
> 9) Spark at plugs thin and yellow (wrrr, wrrr, wrrr). (should be blue and
> wide?)
> 10) Timed engine again statically 10 degrees, used timing light to
> dynamically time to 14 degrees (engine rotating on starter power only,
right
> thing to do?). wrrr, wrrr, wrrr
> 11) Check fuel in float bowls, its there. Fuel pump is pumping to bowls.
> Lift dampers with fingers and turning engine over, no change. No sign of
> fuel around needles (should there be?)
> 12) Yesterday (last resort) sprayed starter fluid into closed carbs, one
> spray in each. wrrr, wrrr, wrrr, puthh, wrrr, wrrr, puthh, wrrr, wrrr,
> wrrr.
>
> I am running out of ideas. Today, I am going to see if I am out 180
degrees
> on the timing by changing the plug wires around (1,3,4,2). If that does
not
> work I am going to spary starter fluid into open carbs (though I hate to,
I
> have heard you can do some serious damage with that stuff). Still no go,
I
> am going to wire the positive terminal directly to the coil (temporarily)
> and change the LT lead to the coil. Please tell me someone has
experienced
> this before and knows exactly what the deal is. It is acting exactly like
> it was before the rebuild. All I can remember then was that it just stop
> running and I could never get it to run again. I know I have changed alot
> of variables (new parts and rebuilds) and I know that is not the right
> approach to take, you live and learn. FYI, I bought the car in May 1998,
> one month prior to step one. So I don't know the history prior to that,
> could be some serious DPO in it!.
>
> Come on MG list gods don't let me down.
>
> Dereck
>
> FYI I am on the digest, so please respond to my address.
> 70 MGB
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
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