Whether the car is a V8 or not, the same facts apply. Shortened springs
are the quick fix, but cause other problems, including a change in the
Ackerman angle in the front suspension, that tends to induce bump steer,
not a good thing at all. While there is a cure for this, it still leaves
the problem of reduced suspension travel & a higher spring rate,
resulting in a harsh(er) ride.
In my not so humble opinion, the only correct way to lower the car is by
using a CB front cross member & springs. I have tried the shortened
springs, tried the Moss coil over suspension, & lowered 2 cars by
changing the cross member, so I have a basis for my opinion.
In the rear, if you elect to change to the CB springs, you are only part
way there, because the front eye mounting point changed with the RB
cars, so you will have to locate the boss that still remains, drill it
out & weld in reinforcing to change to the early springs. If the car is
not for serious track or auto cross use, you can get by with a set of
lowering blocks. Fine for normal driving, as I have several hundred
thousand miles on this set up, but for the 1 auto cross car, I changed
the mounting points.
You can use the late rack with the early cross member, but the shaft
will have to be shortened & the rack mounting pads massaged to change
the mounting angle to lower the shaft so it will meet the steering
column.
There is recently another way to lower the cat in front that I have not
tried. One of the SCAA racers has developed a dropped spindle that will
lower the car approximately 1" without any other mods, & without causing
any ill effects. No first hand info on this, suggest you consult the MG
V8 list. The only down side is that it only lowers by 1"n not 1 1/2"
that you can get by changing the cross member.
Jim Stuart
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