Carter:
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The little light next to the turn signal light is red in color.
It
lights up when I start the car and then goes out. Is this my
ignition
warning light?
<<<snip>>>
Yes
<<<snip>>>
If so, I have noticed that It has a faint glow while driving.
<<<snip>>>
It should not.
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It will pulsate with the turn signal when it is on.
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Absolutely shouldn't.
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Could this be a warning as to what is causing my alternator and
battery troubles to continue?
<<<snip>>>
Yes.
<<<snip>>> can go drive it today, but in 6 months I'm afraid I'll
be doing all of this again.
Thanks for any thoughts or ideas..
<<<snip>>>
When batteries are purchased, most likely they are not fully
charged as they've been sitting around for several months, plus
the shipping and transportation time. The first thing that needs
to be done with a new battery is to charge it. This is
absolutely vital on a car that isn't driven much. If you buy a
new battery, put it in, drive the car a little, and then let sit
for even three months, it could very well go dead, especially in
cold climates. In fact a fully charged "new" battery can go dead
over the winter in cold climates. BTDT. They either have to be
charged every month in the car, or removed and taken indoors for
the winter. Even indoors they need to be periodically charged.
The latter is the best. If a new battery has suffered a complete
discharge and has been so for even a few days, it quite often
will never return to its full output. In fact, in some cases, it
will never even charge up. This is especially true in cold
weather. When a discharged battery is left in cold weather it
will freeze. A fully charged battery will not.
Your initial problem could have been an alternator that wasn't
putting out full voltage/current. Especially if you've had
trouble over the summer.
Based on your description, the current load is exceeding the
alternator output. The alternator is not putting out the full 40
or 50 amps it is supposed to or something is drawing excessive
current. The turn signals plus the engine don't need more than 5
amps to operate.
So, you need to determine which is which and a few tools to test
the system or take it to a shop and pay them $60/hr. to do it for
you. You can do most of it yourself for about $20 in tools which
every MG owner should really have.
You need a mulitmeter, or VOM meter, which is about $15 at Radio
Shack.
You also need a hydrometer. The better ones have one float inside
which gives the specific gravity. These are less than $5. The
cheaper one with balls, $2, will also work, but aren't as
accurate.
Battery test.
1) Disconnect the battery and check the voltage. It should read
12.3 to 12.6 volts. If it doesn't then the battery has
discharged some. Remove the vent caps and charge the battery for
several hours until all the cells are gassing. Disconnect the
charger and check the voltage again. If it isn't up to 12.3
volts, charge it for a few hours more. If it still isn't up to
12.3 volts, then the battery is failing or has an internal
short.
2) Check each cell with the hydrometer after charging. If the
battery is new, (A few months old and has never gone flat) all of
the balls should float, or the specific gravity should be 1.210
or above in warm weather. In cold weather, in will be around
1.270. Check all of the cells. If any are less than the others,
then the battery is failing.
3) If possible, leave the battery disconnected and don't use it
for several weeks. Check again as above. If it's down more than
10%, then the battery has an internal short and is self
discharging. If the battery seems to stay well charged for one
month, then the alternator is not putting out enough current.
Alternator test.
1) Connect the mulitmeter set for voltage between the battery
insulate terminal and the alternator main output terminal. With
on the vehicle lighting load (headlamps on high). Start and run
the engine at 3000 RPM. The voltmeter reading should not exceed
1/2 volt.
2) Transfer the voltmeter connections to the battery earth
terminal and the alternator body. Start and run the engine to
3000. The voltmeter reading should not exceed 1/4 volt. If the
readings are higher then there is a load (short?) in the circuit
which must be corrected.
3. There are other alternator tests but you need an ammeter
capable of carrying a full 40/50 amps .
My guess is that the battery is bad because it was allowed to
become completely discharged. This would be especially true if
the battery is older than the new alternator. The battery is
then taking most of the output of the alternator, and when the
turns are activated, there's not enough electricity left and the
warning lights glows in sequence with the turn signals. If the
warning light glows when the headlights are turned on, then it is
a sign also.
Blake
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