At 02:56 PM 1/27/2002 +0000, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
>1. Screw it back in, but if it does it again the threads have been
>stripped, probably on the plastic damper screw. If you can't get a
>replacement easily you may be able to jury-rig a clamp to hold it in, some
>performance applications have this as standard. BTW, it can be caused by
>having too thick an oil in the dashpots, it should be engine oil, typically
>20W/50. Being unscrewed wouldn't affect idle but you would get weak mixture
>and hesitation under acceleration.
At least I wasn't the only one with this problem. Last year I wrote the
list. I tried replacing the dampers. No success. On the one carb that it
was happening to the most, I finally replaced the carb dashpot with a used
one that Frank sent me. The problem seemed to go away.
But now its back, worse then ever. Usually the damper comes loose on the
front carb, about every day or two, the rear about once a week or so.
Today, the front carb damper unscrewed itself twice during the day, each
time in less than five miles of city driving.
I've never seen this before in over twenty years of MG driving but its
happening on my 67BGT frequently. The car runs fine - the main symptom is
some hesitancy on acceleration, particularly double clutching on the
downshift to second gear.
Today I changed the oil in both dashpots to 5W-30, the light oil normally
used in newer car engines. Maybe Paul is right on this one and its the
thick winter oil (although other factors must be part of this). Its winter
and I think the problem went way during the warmer months so long ago. I
also removed the dashpot gaskets so I would have more thread tightening. I
noticed these new dashpot dampers didn't have as many threads as the
I will know tomorrow if I'm successful. Otherwise I am at a loss as I have
tried everything from different dashpots, new dashpot dampers, new gaskets
(and now without).
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