Or, the ballast resistor is to lower the voltage across the points during
operation so that they will last longer, the bypass is to get full battery
voltage across the points when the starter is being used so that the car
will start easier. Non ballasted coils have a higher internal secondary
coil resistance so that the external resistor is not needed. Be warned that
while American cars used bit ceramic insulated resistors many British and
other cars used a section of resistance wire within the harness so it is not
so simple a task to just remove the resistor and use a different type of
coil.
james
> The purpose of the ballast-resistor system is to help dodgy ignition
> systems on dodgy motors still manage to work. The best setup, in my
> opinion, is to have a top-notch motor and ignition system so it's
> not needed.
>
> The ballast resistor, along with a 9 volt coil and the switching to
> put the resistor in and out of the circuit, are to make up for the
> loss in electrical energy that takes place when the starter is being
> actuated.
>
> When cranking, the power available is a nominal 9 volts, so the
> ballasted system connects the coil to full available voltage when
> cranking and then puts the resistor in the circuit when not
> cranking, so it still sees roughly 9 volts.
>
> If you use a 12 volt coil with a ballasted system, it won't get full
> power either cranking or not and so it may be dodgy.
>
> If you use a coil for a ballasted system on a non-ballasted system,
> it may get too hot from the overvoltage and may eventually fail.
>
> I recommend the Lucas Sports Coil and a non-ballasted system as the
> best bet for well-maintained LBCs.
>
> -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com
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