David:
I broke down and had a very experienced upholsterer do the recover
on my 65 MGB. Cost a chunk, but worth it.
This is what he showed me.
1. All of the piping must be pushed out into it's final position. As
received the piping/material sandwich is as it went through the sewing
machine. Ask your sig. others about ironing seams flat after sewing.
2. Glue the cardboard backs and foam onto the seat back. Use a stack of
books for weight to ensure that the center glues correctly.
3. On the seat bottoms the fabric has to sit down into the recessed foam.
To do this he caught the bottom of the seat fabric with heavy thread,
punched through the foam, through the rubber bladder and tied off with a
piece of wire. This pulled the material tight against the foam recess about
where your thighs hit. I'd never seen this before, but it made an
incredible difference to the shaping of the seat bottom. The frame and
material edges were then coated with contact cement and the front and sides
pulled down whilst tacky and clipped with the rings.
The final job looks and feels incredible. Particularily compared to the
right cock up I made of my last set of leather seats.
Watching an experienced professional work can make you feel very humble.
Kelvin.
65 MGB Race Car with very nice stock leather covered seats.
> Hi All,
>
> I just purchased a leather seat kit (along with new cushions,
> webbing & seat
> back stiffener) from Moss for my 1966 MGB. I also bought the
> panel and carpet
> kit. Red leather...black piping. Beautiful craftsmanship!
>
> My question is, does any one have any tips, instructions,
> warnings, etc. on
> installing the leather seat covers? Trying to stretch that
> leather across
> those foam cushions should be fun! In "Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y.
> Restoration", Lindsay Porter suggests attaching a layer of
> thin plastic on the
> cushions. Would that work? Should I glue the foam and seat
> back stiffener to
> the seat frame first?
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