At 09:49 AM 4/13/02 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>....
>.... I plan to add a line fuse for the lights. What rating should it have?\
Total watts/12volts=ampers
Fuse should be about 50% larger than the maximum current draw.
>I have converted the original sealed beams to H4 halogens and I still use
>the sidemarker lights.
Halogen single headlamps should be 55-65 watts each on high beam. I think
100 watt headlamps are illegal in the US (but never heard of anyone being
ticketed for it). Front and rear parking lamps are 6 watts each. Side
marker lamps 2-1/2 or 4 watts each. License plate lamps usually 4 watts
each (probably 2 bulbs). Brake lights, turn signals and four-way flashers
are 21 watts each. Dash illumination lamps could be 1-3/4 or 2-1/2 watts
each (unless replaced with higher output bulbs). Map light may be 4 or 6
watts. Courtesy lights that come on when the door is opened are usually 6
watts each, but retrofits could be as high as 21 watts. Interior dome
light (if the GT has one) would be 21 watts.
>I'd like to fuse the complete lights circuit or should I fuses the dash
>seperately from the rest?
>....
>'71 BGT
It would be nice to have the headlights on a separate fuse, or even a fuse
for each lamp (if you took the time to run separate wires back to the
dipper switch). Many newer cars have a time delay resetting circuit
breaker for the headlights, so if it shorts and trips off it will come back
on after a bit, and if the short persists it will cycle off and on (with a
fairly short on period and longer off time).
Please don't bodge the wiring. Crimp or solder all wire connections
(except plug-in connectors), and leave no bare conductors. If you modify
the wiring harness do a nice job of tape wrap afterwards, just so we don't
have to rag on you as the DCO or DPC in future notes. And any change from
stock specification should be documented for future maintainance.
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude (an only 2 fuses)
http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
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