Telewest (PH) wrote:
>>The DPPO installed a puller fan to replace the two pushers, but he wired
>>it up to the third fuse down and put a toggle switch on the dash
>>(through one of the blank plates). The DPO didn't like that, as he
>>couldn't remember to turn the thing on and so pulled the switch out and
>>has the fan run all the time. The thermo switch wasn't secure and would
>>push out (not all the way) when warm.
>>
>>I got a new switch, gasket and clip (missing) and installed that.
>>
>>Question 1: Is there anyway of testing this with a ohm meter or volt
>>meter? I guess I have to insure that the water is 200F or better in the
>>rad. And that the radiator is completely full right?
>>
>
> Only in hot water as you say.
>
>
>>Question 2: How to I get a radiator that doesn't have a cap completely
>>full? I filled the overflow last night, should/will the radiator suck
>>that in until it's full?
>>
>
> The rad should eventually exchange any air in the rad with coolant from the
> expansion tank but it may take a few cycles. There should be a top-up/bleed
> plug somewhere in the system, either on top of the rad or the thermostat
> elbow. Have the front slightly higher than the back when topping up.
Ah, good idea. There is a screw in plug over the thermostat.
>
>>Question 3: The original wiring is not working. I looked at the '78
>>wiring diagram in Bentley and found an inline fuse. I found it under the
>>hood, and sure enough it was blown. I didn't have any to match the fuse
>>in there. It was probably a 1/4 inch longer than regular. It says 30 SFE
>>on the end. Is that the right fuse?
>>
>
> Should be a standard 17amp rated 35 amp blow. Having it on the green
> circuit is a bad thing as it will tend to slow down the turn flashers more
> than normal. Factory 4-cylinder cars had the in-line in the output from the
> ignition relay which is better than the green circuit. Factory V8s had
> their own fan relay direct off the brown which is even better - voltage drop
> is lower still and the fan stat is only carrying relay current and not fan
> current.
I printed off the cooling fan pages from your site. Would I get relays
at any auto parts store? What am I looking for in these?
>
>>Question 4: While were on fuses. In my debugging, and wiring play, I
>>blew a fuse (number 3), I went to Menard's and got a 5 pack. Last night,
>>in my test drive, or maybe just before, I blew it again. I don't have it
>>here with me, but I'm thinking it was a 20amp. Is that right? Bentley
>>says 35 amp, which I believe the list in the past week has been saying
>>17 amp nominal with 35 amp burst? Something like that. Fuse 2 looks to
>>be the same amperage as 3, I don't remember 4, but 1 seems to be a thin
>>wire. This seems suspect to me.
>>
>
> 17/35 is correct as above. If the fans are still on the green fuse that
> could cause it.
Ok, great. I'll try a standard in the inline fuse and see if I can get
power thru the real wires, and thru the stat.
Thanks Paul!
Paul
'77B
--
Paul T. Root E/Mail: proot@iaces.com
600 Stinson Blvd, Fl 1S PAG: +1 (877) 693-7155
Minneapolis, MN 55413 WRK: +1 (612) 664-3385
NIC: PTR FAX: +1 (612) 664-4779
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|