Quoting Marc <smarc@abs.net>:
> I was reading on someone's web site, about this conversion. The article
> mentioned having to replace the engine mounts, and add an extra shim to the
> mounts on the left side to get enough clearance for the air filters.
>
I wondered about that. It is mentioned in the write up Barney Gaylord did for
the Chicago MG club about conversion to dual SU's. My MGB came disassembled,
motor out - most of the parts in nicely labeled zip-lock bags. One bag had 4
shims and merely said 'motor mounts'. I put in two on either side - maybe that
was enough?
> How did your choke and accelerator linkages work out? I'm still not pleased
> with either of mine. Choke is stiff, and and have problems with idle speed
> due to linkage problems. Have a new late model cable to try, and a T-handle
> choke cable. Will be giving those a try when time permits.
>
OK, now you're making me think here to remember what I did last week... I used
the outer cable from the '78 (single carb). IIRC, I removed the inner cable
then used the inner cable from an earlier model. One can use the inner cable
from the '78 after cutting off the end but the cable will unravel (unless you
solder the strands) - that is why I used the new one (plus I had it on hand).
Next I drilled through the small fitting that would have received the end of
the cable into the top of the heat shield so that the threaded portion of
the '78 cable would pass through. This fitting is riveted onto the heat shield,
drilling it out to 3/16" cut through the riveted portion so I slipped it onto
the threaded end of the '78 cable and, after passing the cable through the top
of the heat shield, used the nuts on the cable to secure it all in place.
That part works great. The choke cable I am not yet happy with. As we are
planning to replace the whole dash board soon (it has cracks in the plastic) I
went ahead and drilled a hole to mount it (figuring if I screwed it up I could
hide the hole when we replace the dash later.) I put in in the lower, right
side of the dash - near the temp gauge - but, unbeknowst to me, there is a
brace behind the dash about 3" away. I had stuck my hand up there to check for
clearance but should have looked as I did not take this brace into account. So,
the choke cable does fit exactly straight into the dash as I had to angle it to
clear this brace. doh!
Also, the choke cable on HS-4's works 'backwards' - the cable is actually fixed
and the sheath is what moves the choke levers. So, that is what makes me think
the choke cable is so stiff. I'm not sure how it works on HIF's.
HTH,
Eric
P.S. I will post this to the MG list - maybe we can get someone else's
experience.
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