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Re: choke & throttle cables in '78 MGB w SU's (was: foam air

To: ejrussell@mebtel.net
Subject: Re: choke & throttle cables in '78 MGB w SU's (was: foam air
From: Paul Root <proot@iaces.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 09:41:53 -0500
Does anyone remember someone soldering bike brake cable to the choke T 
handle to make a new cable. I think that's what I need to do. Is it 
possible?

More comments below.


Paul.

ejrussell@mebtel.net wrote:
> Quoting Marc <smarc@abs.net>:
> 
> 
>>I was reading on someone's web site, about this conversion. The article
>>mentioned having to replace the engine mounts, and add an extra shim to the
>>mounts on the left side to get enough clearance for the air filters.
>>
> 
> 
> I wondered about that. It is mentioned in the write up Barney Gaylord did for 
> the Chicago MG club about conversion to dual SU's. My MGB came disassembled, 
> motor out - most of the parts in nicely labeled zip-lock bags. One bag had 4 
> shims and merely said 'motor mounts'. I put in two on either side - maybe 
>that 
> was enough?

I think this varies. They replaced the motormounts because they were 
broken. The shims are there to tilt the engine a bit so that the rear
clears the booster.

Temporarily, I dented the grill of my foam aircleaner. The old ones I 
got off ebay. I didn't want to dent my new ones. That seems ok. But I
think the shim is the way to go.

I worked until 12:30 am last night. I'm dragging a bit today.

I found that I really need a new heater pipe. You can't leave the old 
one under the HIFs.


> 
> OK, now you're making me think here to remember what I did last week... I 
>used 
> the outer cable from the '78 (single carb).


I got the 74 1/2 throttle cable to hook to my HIFs. It has a bracket 
that slips over the throttle linkage arm (the thing shaped like Lake 
Superior) and a pin and cotter pin hold it on. Simple.

The old manual choke cable on the ZS wasn't long enough. All I really 
need is a new inner wire.  I seem to remember someone saying that 
somehow, they connected a bike cable to the T-arm of the choke cable.

I don't see how to do that. The metal bar coming out of the T looks 
solid and then the cable just starts.




> 
> Also, the choke cable on HS-4's works 'backwards' - the cable is actually 
>fixed 
> and the sheath is what moves the choke levers. So, that is what makes me 
>think 
> the choke cable is so stiff. I'm not sure how it works on HIF's.

The HIF is also backwards. It comes up from the bottom goes through the 
choke linkage and you secure the cable to the bracket above.



> HTH,
> Eric
> 
> P.S. I will post this to the MG list - maybe we can get someone else's 
> experience.


Well, my experience was last night. I got the thing started, but haven't 
started tuning. As I'm still missing a bit. I don't have a Y connector 
for the tappet cover to the carbs, the choke cable. And as I said, the 
lower heater pipe doesn't work with the HIFs, I sprung a leak.


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