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Re: Starting the Engine Work on my 68B

To: "Ross Bateman" <ross@rcsa.co.za>, "MG Mailing List"
Subject: Re: Starting the Engine Work on my 68B
From: jello@ida.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:31:08 US/Mountain
> The car will eventually be an everyday driver but I want it to have a 
> real sting in it's tail. No way I want to be left standing by a hot 
> hatch.

This is always the dilema - reliability vs. power.  If you really want a 
daily driver, I wouldn't modify it much, possibly remove the emissions 
stuff, and make sure you've got the high compression pistons, but major 
change - it will effect the status as a daily driver.  To do the 
modifications you have listed, you also need to upgrade your cooling 
system, and put in a good oil cooler system.
 
> There are a few things I wanted to run by the list so that I can get my
> plan of action right from the start.
> 
> My list of ideas are as follows:
> 
> rebore to 2 litre (or as close as is possible)
> lighten the fly wheel by a few pounds (I have read 6 pounds is good)
> balance both the flywheel and crank
> port and polish the head
> use bigger valves
> put in a mild second stage cam
> fit a good branch and in turn exhaust system
> richer needles in the SUs with K&Ns filtering the air
> fit electronic ignition with more modern solenoid etc

As mentioned by others You may be better off just going with a cross flow 
than doing all this work on the head, or you may be better off with a 
supercharger.  If you could do the cross-flow head and a supercharger, 
that would be great, but I don't think kits are available for that.  You 
could also modify some intakes to take injection, and put in about an 
additional $1500 in electronics to extract every ounce of power out of the 
engine, but that's a lot of work.

Don't lighten the flywheel too much, it will cause drivability problems.  
Buy Vizard's book on modifying the B series (is that right) engine.  
Possibly contact APTFast for racing info and parts.  I think they even 
sell modified cranks.

> I want to repaint the engine. I was thinking of stripping the old paint
> with paint stripper and maybe a cup brush while I have it in bits then
> painting.
> Should I do the painting before the mods get done or after? I was 
> thinking before in case any paints gets in where it shouldn't, then
> hopefully the machining will clean it out.

As someone else mentioned, talk to the machine shop doing the work.  
Usually they do the cleaning of the block before they machine, and that 
means some loss of paint.  It is common (and I think original) to paint 
the engine after it is assembled, and before the trans is hooked up for 
installation.

> Will the block and head have to be machined together?

No, but if you find a good machinist/shop, you may want them to do both.

> The reason I ask is I do not have a lot of space and would like to finish
> one sub-assembly before starting on the next. That way I also have more
> chance of remembering where everything goes.
> 
> Thanks for your input,
> 
> Ross
> British Sports Cars in South Africa
>
www.rcsa.co.za

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