Thanks Rick
I tried something like that - opened the bleed screw and tried to open
up the gap. Didn't seem to work at the time [*], but now you've given
me confirmation that I was on the right track, I'll give it another go.
- Derek
[*] Didn't help that I'd just spent 5 frustrating hours tracing through
all the DPO's bizarre hacks to the ignition system before starting on
this job. But that's another story ...
On Saturday 13 September 2003 11:36 pm, Rick deOlazarra wrote:
> Derek,
> What could be happening is that the caliper pistons, that push
> against the rotor when you brake, had "settled" into the position
> they were in; that is, lightly against the surface of the old
> (thinner) rotors, prior to removal. When you go to install the new
> (thicker) rotors, it can throw you off, because the distance between
> the pistons is smaller (old rotor thickness), than the thickness off
> the new (thicker) rotor. The pistons do not retract back on their own
> when the rotors are removed; if anything, they can slowly push out on
> their own, making the gap between them even smaller. It's probably
> not a bad idea to tie them back somehow right after pulling the
> rotors.
> You can push them back though, manually. Ideally some kind of
> expansion tool might be handy, but I believe you can push them back
> with your hands or some leverage tool that doesn't damage the piston
> faces. With your hands, you should be able to feel the pistons slowly
> go back into the caliper... when pushed far enough, the wider gap
> will easily accommodate the newer rotor.
> As the pistons are being pushed back into the calipers, they will
> push the brake fluid back up to the master cylinder, so it's not a
> bad idea to check this as you're going along.
> Sorry, I know you wanted to learn all about caliper rebuilding this
> weekend...
>
> -Rick
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