mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: V8 identification

To: "Antony Gelberg" <antony@antgel.co.uk>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: V8 identification
From: "Telewest \(PH\)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:36:32 +0100
I assume you are talking about a factory V8, a conversion could consist of
anything.

Bodily they are exactly the same as the 4-cylinder in respect of the usual
places to check for corrosion.

Factory V8s are described as having a high-flow oil system and not a high
pressure one, the running pressure should be about 40psi and hot idle can be
as low as 10 or 15, or as an acquaintance with much experience of Police V8s
has said "What hot oil pressure?".  They do have a gauge - the twin
mechanical oil and temp gauge similar (but different scales) to the original
4-cylinder car.  They have hydraulic tappets which can give rise to clatter
on cold starts and hot idle when they and the cam needs replacement so when
up to temp make sure you leave it idling long enough for the electric fans
to cut in and out a couple of times.  V8s also have a very long gauge rise
time but they should start within a couple of seconds of firing up from
cold.  When viewing tell the owner *not* to start it and run it up to temp
before your arrival, you want to be there for the cold start as well as the
hot idle.  There shouldn't be leaks of any fluids, even oil.  I know
4-cylinder MGBs are said to be leaky but V8s shouldn't be.

You should really have been looking in the high temps of August, they will
'keep their cool' much easier now we are into Autumn.  They do run hotter
than 4-cylinder cars and whilst the gauge should be on N at cruising speeds
in free air it can take a while for it to get back down to that after a
period stuck in traffic.  The fans should cut in and out about mid-way
between N and the red H zone on the gauge (although the SU Burlen
replacement cuts in before mid-way and doesn't cut out again until nearly
back down on N), don't be fussed by this, as long as it stays out of the red
zone and isn't losing coolant it isn't overheating.  Several years ago
before I fully fettled my cooling system mine did idle in the red in very
hot weather, but still had no problems other than a rough idle.  Check both
fans operate together and if the owner insists on running them from a manual
switch to keep the temp gauge down be suspicious.  Give it a good hard run
then switch off and make sure it doesn't vomit water out of the overflow
after a couple of seconds - indicates possible engine problems or may just
be a bad cap (15lb).

Be aware that OD operates on 4th only except on the very earliest cars.
Webasto fold-back roofs were a popular after-market option but do wear.  I
have a tilt-and remove glass roof on mine which is fine.  It also has a
MotaLita wheel an inch or so smaller than the standard, it make the steering
heavier than normal, and the horn contact is high-resistance so I have had
to fit a horn relay.  The clutch is heavier than the 4-cylinder, as is the
gearbox as it contains axle oil instead of engine oil.  The brakes are about
the same and should lock with progressive application.  The standard chrome
rim/alloy centre wheels are attractive and I can't see why anyone would want
to replace them with something else.

I can tell you that chassis numbers run from GD2D1 101 to 2903 G, Commission
Numbers are prefixed G75, and Body numbers are prefixed GB75D.  Engine
numbers are stamped on top of the rear flange and are viewable from above on
the left-hand side, and are four digits in the range from about 1 to about
2800.  There should also be the BL symbol and the compression ration of
8.26:1 stamped into the block close by the dip-stick tube.  But you would
have to get a Heritage certificate (from
http://www.heritage.org.uk/archive/trace.htm) to check your chassis and
engine numbers (the commission and body numbers were not recorded) match
with the factory records.  Even then there will probably be changes to the
original spec like tubular manifolds and K&N air filters as the original
cast manifolds haven't been available for many years and the original
'lobster claw' filter housings need them to mount to.  No real reason for
any other changes from spec, though.

PaulH.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Antony Gelberg" <antony@antgel.co.uk>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 10:05 PM
Subject: V8 identification


> I'm looking for a MGB GT V8...




<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>